JamesK
Got to ride
DC, that "don't look right", I don't think I've seen a fuse holder that out of whack before. I am wondering however, why you didn't go with an autoreset Circuit Breaker, since these are available in 50A ratings?
KrZy8 Gen2 - Charging Circuit
- Thread starter dcarver
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
The reversed female sockets are common - I've seen them before. Assuming that the 'flats' of the sockets are lined up, it's not an issue, and is probably done that way to ease some part of the manufacturing process, it could also be done to place opposite tension or pressure on the spades to mechanically enhance the grip on the spades.
If the sockets are misaligned, and you have to tweak the spades on the fuse, then that's a problem. You might try twisting the holder to see if you can get them lined up.
S76
Well-known member
James,
My reading may be a little higher due to the fact that the only thing I have that is constantly on is the Autocom, Zumo GPS, and Radar Detector. Nothing else.
Bob
My reading may be a little higher due to the fact that the only thing I have that is constantly on is the Autocom, Zumo GPS, and Radar Detector. Nothing else.
Bob
dcarver
Well-known member
Regarding reversed terminals in MaxiFuse, this is normal, per Jack. Hal is right, designed to keep tension on terminals. The fuse was too tight of fit.. Really, it took pliers to remove fuse. The 50 amp CB inserted much more easily, probably a smaller blade width?
Here are some pix of EB and 'Jack' harness..
Hot in the shop
I think the pix say it all..
Here are some pix of EB and 'Jack' harness..
Hot in the shop
I think the pix say it all..
Last edited by a moderator:
dcarver
Well-known member
Occurs to me some guy will spend alot of time reading through this thread when HIS Gen2 charging system takes a ****!
:****:
:lol:
:****:
:lol:
JamesK
Got to ride
That inline CB looks really trick.
As I mentioned in my write up, I feel much better (given the current running through this wires and the routing through half the bike, especially the engine bay), having encased my loom with a sheath, but that's just me
As I mentioned in my write up, I feel much better (given the current running through this wires and the routing through half the bike, especially the engine bay), having encased my loom with a sheath, but that's just me
JamesK
Got to ride
Well, we could summarize it I guess.
Nuh, screw him/them, reading the thread it's a lot less effort (and expense) than doing the research
dcarver
Well-known member
Finally got around to installing the roadstercycle.com harness. It took some time to get a routing path I liked, and I used black asphalt wiring loom to protect the wires. Locating the huge sized maxi fuse holder took sometime too - but finally decided on placing it in the upper cowling area between the battery and cowling. The plastic appears to place well, e.g. all holes line up, no stress on the plastic.
Connected the positive wire and eagerly awaited to see 13.9 to 14. 2 vdc at the battery?
Imagine my suprise when I had zero, zip, zilch charging?
CACK!
Where is that ground wire anyway? :lol: Oh, I see, it's hanging in free air, Dumb Ass!
Long of short - with old RR saw 13.9, 14.0 after about 20 seconds, all starting with a slightly discharged battery (been doing wiring and testing all day with no running or battery charger).
Decided to use my new RR, which has slightly lower output than the OEM, cause the tang on the stator connector of the OEM RR had broken (gee, how did that happen? :glare: ) and I would have to use tyraps to keep the connector secure.
With the new RR, saw 13.8, 13.9, scratching to 14.0 - just like I saw using the CarverHarness. I did notice that the new RR had steadier readings as loads are applied, e.g. the 13.9 only dropped to 13.7 when HID's, hi beam, brakes were added to the load. The OEM RR would drop to 13.4, 13.5.
In other words, WooHoo,
Candy Butt Association
I'll try to get pix up tonight when I get off work.
Connected the positive wire and eagerly awaited to see 13.9 to 14. 2 vdc at the battery?
Imagine my suprise when I had zero, zip, zilch charging?
CACK!
Where is that ground wire anyway? :lol: Oh, I see, it's hanging in free air, Dumb Ass!
Long of short - with old RR saw 13.9, 14.0 after about 20 seconds, all starting with a slightly discharged battery (been doing wiring and testing all day with no running or battery charger).
Decided to use my new RR, which has slightly lower output than the OEM, cause the tang on the stator connector of the OEM RR had broken (gee, how did that happen? :glare: ) and I would have to use tyraps to keep the connector secure.
With the new RR, saw 13.8, 13.9, scratching to 14.0 - just like I saw using the CarverHarness. I did notice that the new RR had steadier readings as loads are applied, e.g. the 13.9 only dropped to 13.7 when HID's, hi beam, brakes were added to the load. The OEM RR would drop to 13.4, 13.5.
In other words, WooHoo,
Candy Butt Association
I'll try to get pix up tonight when I get off work.
RossKean
Well-known member
Great stuff, Don.
If you leave right now, you could make it to NERDS!! I figure less than 48 hours of riding time from your place will get you to Stowe VT in time for the festivities. I'll buy your first beer.
Should be a breeze for a Candy Butt rider of your caliber.
Ross
If you leave right now, you could make it to NERDS!! I figure less than 48 hours of riding time from your place will get you to Stowe VT in time for the festivities. I'll buy your first beer.
Should be a breeze for a Candy Butt rider of your caliber.
Ross
dcarver
Well-known member
Well, the problem with that scenario is all the rest of the bike is still in pieces! :huh: I am going to miss NERDS big time - has it been a year already?
ToyQuest
Well-known member
First, thanks much to all for the time and effort to get to this point. It is greatly appreciated (and educational). I've been watching this thread with great interest as my 09 appears to be suffering the same degeneration signs (currently 13.8 max with only starcom / V1 additional load).
Full disclosure, I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm hoping those in the know will quickly tell me why this will/will not work. I'm attempting to think outside the box and trying to add value to an already great piece of research and development
I was asking myself, are they any other potential wiring solutions that could be used to:
- Fuse both ends of the cable in a low profile manner
- Adding the ability to use 8ga wire (albeit overkill) and not have a R/R connector fitment issue
What if fusible wire links were used at each end of the by-pass wire? Given that fusible wire links are generally 4 sizes under the size of the protected wire (for example. https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml). A 8ga wire would use a 12 ga fusible link that should easily fit into the R/R connector. It would provide low profile protection each end. As discussed, we sleeve the by-pass wire for max protection and hope that we never have to leverage the fusible wire link insurance policy
Understanding that a fusible link is an absolute fail safe device not easily fixed on the side of the road, does this add value or over complicate the existing solution? Thoughts?
Full disclosure, I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm hoping those in the know will quickly tell me why this will/will not work. I'm attempting to think outside the box and trying to add value to an already great piece of research and development
I was asking myself, are they any other potential wiring solutions that could be used to:
- Fuse both ends of the cable in a low profile manner
- Adding the ability to use 8ga wire (albeit overkill) and not have a R/R connector fitment issue
What if fusible wire links were used at each end of the by-pass wire? Given that fusible wire links are generally 4 sizes under the size of the protected wire (for example. https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml). A 8ga wire would use a 12 ga fusible link that should easily fit into the R/R connector. It would provide low profile protection each end. As discussed, we sleeve the by-pass wire for max protection and hope that we never have to leverage the fusible wire link insurance policy
Understanding that a fusible link is an absolute fail safe device not easily fixed on the side of the road, does this add value or over complicate the existing solution? Thoughts?
JamesK
Got to ride
I can see that their site says that the 12ga FWL is meant to protect an 8ga wire, but "it don't make no sense to me" :blink: Earlier on in this thread all sorts of valid arguments were being made against even sticking with a 30A auto-resetable Circuit Breaker, even though the max current Don measured was around 28A. Sure the theoretical possible max current can go higher, but not likely, at least I've not yet seen my 30A CB trip onceFirst, thanks much to all for the time and effort to get to this point. It is greatly appreciated (and educational). I've been watching this thread with great interest as my 09 appears to be suffering the same degeneration signs (currently 13.8 max with only starcom / V1 additional load).
Full disclosure, I'm not an electrical engineer so I'm hoping those in the know will quickly tell me why this will/will not work. I'm attempting to think outside the box and trying to add value to an already great piece of research and development
I was asking myself, are they any other potential wiring solutions that could be used to:
- Fuse both ends of the cable in a low profile manner
- Adding the ability to use 8ga wire (albeit overkill) and not have a R/R connector fitment issue
What if fusible wire links were used at each end of the by-pass wire? Given that fusible wire links are generally 4 sizes under the size of the protected wire (for example. https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml). A 8ga wire would use a 12 ga fusible link that should easily fit into the R/R connector. It would provide low profile protection each end. As discussed, we sleeve the by-pass wire for max protection and hope that we never have to leverage the fusible wire link insurance policy
Understanding that a fusible link is an absolute fail safe device not easily fixed on the side of the road, does this add value or over complicate the existing solution? Thoughts?
None, the less for a few extra bucks I've ordered a 50A CB.A related question would be why would you NOT want to stick with something as neat as a 50A Circuit Breaker idea? On a bike like the FJR there is NO problem finding a place for one or even two (over kill IMHO) 50A CBs. And if you make sure to get the auto-resetting versions, you'll not find yourself having to strip off Tupperware on the side of the road somewhere (in the dark and in heavy rain, as these things usually happen) to change FWL/Fuses or even manually resetting the CB.
On the issue of your degrading charging system, I think the conclusive results already published in this thread by a number of peeps certainly suggest to either order a harness from say www.roadstercycle.com or just the parts and DIY a loom. Install this and forget about this for the life of the bike.
JamesK
Got to ride
DC, glad to finally see the 14.x showing up ("in production") on your FJR - congrats, and again THANK YOU for getting this started and the research you've done which will benefit, dare I say every Gen II owner.Finally got around to installing the roadstercycle.com harness. It took some time to get a routing path I liked, and I used black asphalt wiring loom to protect the wires. Locating the huge sized maxi fuse holder took sometime too - but finally decided on placing it in the upper cowling area between the battery and cowling. The plastic appears to place well, e.g. all holes line up, no stress on the plastic.
Connected the positive wire and eagerly awaited to see 13.9 to 14. 2 vdc at the battery?
Imagine my suprise when I had zero, zip, zilch charging?
CACK!
Where is that ground wire anyway? :lol: Oh, I see, it's hanging in free air, Dumb Ass!
Long of short - with old RR saw 13.9, 14.0 after about 20 seconds, all starting with a slightly discharged battery (been doing wiring and testing all day with no running or battery charger).
Decided to use my new RR, which has slightly lower output than the OEM, cause the tang on the stator connector of the OEM RR had broken (gee, how did that happen? :glare: ) and I would have to use tyraps to keep the connector secure.
With the new RR, saw 13.8, 13.9, scratching to 14.0 - just like I saw using the CarverHarness. I did notice that the new RR had steadier readings as loads are applied, e.g. the 13.9 only dropped to 13.7 when HID's, hi beam, brakes were added to the load. The OEM RR would drop to 13.4, 13.5.
In other words, WooHoo,
Candy Butt Association
I'll try to get pix up tonight when I get off work.
ToyQuest
Well-known member
Installing a CB on the battery end is not a problem (still have to find space). Installing one on the other end at/near the R/R (for greatest protection) would require a waterproof version. AFAIK all of the Cooper/Bussman types shown here are not waterproof and require installation in a shielded area (i.e. not within 12+" of the R/R). Thus the fusible link thought.
JamesK
Got to ride
If you read through my post of where I stashed the OEM R/R plug, you'll see that there is ample space that's well protected in the triangular corner behind and just below the ECU. This area looked very clean and dry based on the absence of any road grime and water marks, etc.
dcarver
Well-known member
So, while at this project decided to clean up the wiring a bit..
Now getting to the air filter will be easier...
Grounded the abandoned wire here..
Holy Crap, everything still works!
Actually, after I had run all the new wiring and what not, saw that I needed to replace the Starcomm volume control, so guess what? Yep, complete re-ripping of wiring harness and stage 2... All this takes time.. Had to take a break and get a new attitude...
Coated the RR with conducting paste.. Decided to use the new RR since the tab for the connectors were still intact. I broke this tab on the OEM part 2 or so years ago and have used a ty-rap to keep the connector secured. Kinda hokey. The new RR has about .1 vdc less outupt but has advanced circuitry that will disable the RR if it gets too hot.
Now getting to the air filter will be easier...
Grounded the abandoned wire here..
Holy Crap, everything still works!
Actually, after I had run all the new wiring and what not, saw that I needed to replace the Starcomm volume control, so guess what? Yep, complete re-ripping of wiring harness and stage 2... All this takes time.. Had to take a break and get a new attitude...
Coated the RR with conducting paste.. Decided to use the new RR since the tab for the connectors were still intact. I broke this tab on the OEM part 2 or so years ago and have used a ty-rap to keep the connector secured. Kinda hokey. The new RR has about .1 vdc less outupt but has advanced circuitry that will disable the RR if it gets too hot.
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S76
Well-known member
Nice work Don! Again, thank you for getting to the bottom of this. I am still seeing 14.3x on initial start-up and 14.18 to 14.21 riding. Could not be happier.
Bob
Bob
dcarver
Well-known member
Wow, those numbers are GREAT - better than I've seen. Out of curiosity, are you running the OEM RR version 1 or 2?
To update this thread a bit more, tonight I swapped alternator cases and stators so that the 5,000 mile stator is in the blemish-free cover. Would have posted pix but left camera usb cable at work...
Waiting on new gasket, should arrive tomorrow, and hoping to have most of the KrZy8 together by Sunday..
I even took a vacation day on Friday to help make it happen - I miss horsepower and triple digits..
S76
Well-known member
Wow, those numbers are GREAT - better than I've seen. Out of curiosity, are you running the OEM RR version 1 or 2?
The old style.
The old style.
JamesK
Got to ride
I have a sneaky suspicion that there is going to be one more part to this fix. I was just out on a 1.5 week trip/tour and started noticing that the voltage on the Datel was sometimes showing around 13.8V, this is with minimal loads, running during the day. After about a day of this I checked all the connections on the R/R wiring loom and the battery connections (all were good), I also tried to "push down" on the wires on the R/R plug. The plug did not budge and felt securely located/locked in, I also pushed the wires in the plug, and after that and for the remaining 4k miles of my ride the voltage was back to "normal"/expected levels, both with and without full load.
I remember Bob mentioned that he used some automotive connectors because he thought the OEM Furukawa terminals made really weak contact. After the above experience I tend to agree with Bob's views and if that problem reappears I will be looking to replace the terminals with something similar to what Bob used.
Bob, could you please post up some pics/links to the terminals you used, the 10AWG version.
I remember Bob mentioned that he used some automotive connectors because he thought the OEM Furukawa terminals made really weak contact. After the above experience I tend to agree with Bob's views and if that problem reappears I will be looking to replace the terminals with something similar to what Bob used.
Bob, could you please post up some pics/links to the terminals you used, the 10AWG version.
