JamesK
Got to ride
Glad your setup worked to fix Yamaha's design screw up.Finally stopped raining so I got it out and ran till the fans came on. At first start it was 14.2 at high idle, then settled down to 14.0 at idle. When the fans came on it was 13.6 at idle,(1100 RPMS) and 13.9 at 2500 RPMS, . Before the fix it was 12.9 at idle with the fans and no improvement with higher RPMs.Spectacular! I think the 'fix' will be confirmed multiple times by various peeps. Good on yah for getting 8 gauge wire in the connector.. Any pix?
No pics of the connector, sorry. But I used 10 gauge automotive connectors and the 8 ga. went in, just barely and with force. I soldered them. I had to cut a little window in them for the plastic lock tab and then they were crooked so the plastic plug body needed to be filed some and the mouth of the female connector had to be opened a little at the end so the bayonet would engage. Even at that it was a firm push to get them seated. Which is actually a good thing because the factory connectors were a very light fit on the bayonet. Certainly not worthy of that kind of power in my opinion which you actually proved by the voltage increase you got using the automotive connectors.
My bike slowly deteriorated over six years. I suspect that most Gen II's have this problem, it just hasn't gotten bad enough yet. Funny thing is, you can run all the ohmage (is that a word?) and voltage tests like you and I did, and they all show good. You need to have a load to see the deterioration.
I love this bike, but let's be honest, the wiring on the Gen II's is a nightmare.
One thing I'm a little puzzled about though is it possible that running the ground through the frame as you did could be in anyway better? If I remember correctly the battery is grounded to the engine block which in grounded to the frame incidentally via the various mounting bolts.
Actually,I'm also curious as to why you grounded the OEM R/R -ve wire? What is the logic there vs. leaving it (the whole OEM plug) taped up and untouched?