Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
It will support two channels of 72W or 6 Amps per channel ... so yes
https://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml
-
If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to FJRForum and give back.
You can become a Supporting Member or just click here to donate.
LEDRider LED Floods and Spots - FJR Forum discount
- Thread starter Justin
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
https://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml
rocketman0
Well-known member
Looks like the Skene controller/dimmer can't do the stepless infinite brightness adjustment of the rotary dimmer switch?
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
In practise it can. It adjusts in 10% increments from zero to 100%. That's good enough for most purposes.
Also, if you get the fancy version it has a rapid flash sequence that is triggered by hitting the High Beams twice.
rocketman0
Well-known member
Looks like you can only choose 3 settings (any 3 from 0 to 100%): https://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175_Wiring.html
Unlike a rotary dimmer that can set it to any brightness level on-the-fly. Correct?
Twigg
Just an old, bald man!
That's probably correct, although it gets complicated because there are things you can do with different switching arrangements that let you adjust the settings on the fly. A rotary dimmer is simpler, but in the real world you'll only ever use a couple of settings. You can also feed the Skene output through a rotary dimmer if you want. Bt "rotary dimmer" I assume you mean a PWM controller, not a rheostat.
rocketman0
Well-known member
Some follow up on a previously mentioned issue with the LR4 lights:
I had PMed Justin and he kindly sent me out 4 new black rubber o-rings, (though there are only 2 required) to replace the two green colored original o-rings. Looking at the rings I did not see that they looked all that much thicker, but just said, what the heck... silicone greased them up and installed them.
Unfortunately, the new o-rings did not better that the originals, and during our 2 week Ride to the Divide both of the lights were fully fogged up. Still put out plenty of light through the moisture, but I don't think it would be good for the long term health of the electronics. I didn't want to be messing them up while out on the road, so I waited until I got home and took them apart yesterday, intending on goobering them up with some silicone sealer.
But, when I had the lenses in hand I came up with a better idea that may be a "best practice" for you all. First thing that I noticed was that the total diameter of the o-rings was just a tad too small, which had made it difficult to keep them in the little groove when re-assembling. On a whim, I tried just stretching the o-ring out a little and that did seem to make a big difference in getting it properly seated. With the o-ring in place in its groove of the lens cap, I dropped the clear plastic lens on top of it, then put a second pre-stretched o-ring on top of the lens. The second ring will contact the edge of the silver reflector and help push the clear lens into the outermost o-ring.
Having the rings silicone greased and assembling carefully everything stayed in place and the pressure against the outer most o-ring is much improved. I'm fairly confident that this will completely solve the moisture leakage.
Just wanted to share the idea in case you run into the same thing.
I had PMed Justin and he kindly sent me out 4 new black rubber o-rings, (though there are only 2 required) to replace the two green colored original o-rings. Looking at the rings I did not see that they looked all that much thicker, but just said, what the heck... silicone greased them up and installed them.
Unfortunately, the new o-rings did not better that the originals, and during our 2 week Ride to the Divide both of the lights were fully fogged up. Still put out plenty of light through the moisture, but I don't think it would be good for the long term health of the electronics. I didn't want to be messing them up while out on the road, so I waited until I got home and took them apart yesterday, intending on goobering them up with some silicone sealer.
But, when I had the lenses in hand I came up with a better idea that may be a "best practice" for you all. First thing that I noticed was that the total diameter of the o-rings was just a tad too small, which had made it difficult to keep them in the little groove when re-assembling. On a whim, I tried just stretching the o-ring out a little and that did seem to make a big difference in getting it properly seated. With the o-ring in place in its groove of the lens cap, I dropped the clear plastic lens on top of it, then put a second pre-stretched o-ring on top of the lens. The second ring will contact the edge of the silver reflector and help push the clear lens into the outermost o-ring.
Having the rings silicone greased and assembling carefully everything stayed in place and the pressure against the outer most o-ring is much improved. I'm fairly confident that this will completely solve the moisture leakage.
Just wanted to share the idea in case you run into the same thing.
Please show me the mount that u have to get those mounted above the headlights.....been trying to figure it out on my Tenere
There are many different under mirror type brackets available.
I am using these, made by Forum Member 08FJR4ME. I like them a lot because the brackets do not flex around at all.
Here's my install, and here's the details on the Wynpro "Anti-vibe brackets".
I am using these, made by Forum Member 08FJR4ME. I like them a lot because the brackets do not flex around at all.
Here's my install, and here's the details on the Wynpro "Anti-vibe brackets".
Last edited by a moderator:
bigjohnsd
2021 BMW R1250GSA
Fred, now tghat you have a Gen III do you suppose there might be a chance Dave will produce these brackets for that bike as well, combined with mirror extenders I'll bet they would sell quite a few?
I fully intend on exploring that, John. I'm thinking an extender / bracket combo of some sort to eliminate the depression at the mirror base and get the light bracket to lie flush with the front faring.
But I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, being that I won't even take possession of the test mule until this Friday!
But I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, being that I won't even take possession of the test mule until this Friday!
Chuck35
Well-known member
Speaking of Denver...Justin it was a pleasure to meet you. I'd like to say publicly how pleased I am with the level of customer service you provided. It even cut into his beer time!
I had a pair of mini's about a year old turning gold, they were swapped for the latest and greatest. Also a bit of moisture in one of my LR4's which led to new o rings for all.
I was also allowed to take a pair of LED drop in (lol) head light bulbs for an extended test drive. I don't think I have them properly aimed yet, but there is a lot more light to work with.
I have gained .4 volts on hi and low beam. That's more than the drop I get running a full set of heated gear.
The darkest part of my ride home was yesterday well into a 1000 mile day. I had plenty of light in front of me, and people weren't flashing me.
The only down side so far, (and again they aren't properly aimed yet) is that I don't seem to have a well defined hot spot. I was out running my low beams.
I'll report back after I get a chance to ride / adjust after dark.
If you think the H4 bulb is a bitch to get locked into the socket, try one with a fan on the back.
I had a pair of mini's about a year old turning gold, they were swapped for the latest and greatest. Also a bit of moisture in one of my LR4's which led to new o rings for all.
I was also allowed to take a pair of LED drop in (lol) head light bulbs for an extended test drive. I don't think I have them properly aimed yet, but there is a lot more light to work with.
I have gained .4 volts on hi and low beam. That's more than the drop I get running a full set of heated gear.
The darkest part of my ride home was yesterday well into a 1000 mile day. I had plenty of light in front of me, and people weren't flashing me.
The only down side so far, (and again they aren't properly aimed yet) is that I don't seem to have a well defined hot spot. I was out running my low beams.
I'll report back after I get a chance to ride / adjust after dark.
If you think the H4 bulb is a bitch to get locked into the socket, try one with a fan on the back.
Chuck35
Well-known member
The bike in the picture is an FJR. The mounts used on it in the pic are made by forum member Garauld.
Justin
Well-known member
Sorry for the delay getting back to this post - been super busy the last week with the IBA meet, then getting back in the grind. There are two mounting holes under the nose of the Tenere, if you are talking about this setup. No brackets needed for that. If you have the crash bars with the stock light mounting points, you can also use those. You just need to weld or braze a bead on those to keep them from rotating. Or you can you use a set of tube mount light brackets.
Justin
Well-known member
Thanks, Chuck, glad to meet you as well. And glad we go your lights sorted out and that your happy with your setup.
As to the fogging issue, we did what Fred suggested above, and doubled up the Orings front and back. I will post up some pictures of the process in the next few days. The issue does not affect all lights, just some from a few batches. I have a set on each bike, and have ridden through frog stranglers without a bit of fog. If anyone is having the fogging issue, shoot me a message and we'll send out extra Orings.
