My 2013 FJR has arrived.....

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There appear to be two MAP sensors. Maybe they've gone back to a separate atmospheric sensor.

The high idle wax motor appears to be gone. Don't see a small coolant hose branching off the coolant manifold above the engine.

Wonder if the four coils are bolted down to the head cover?

 
The 4 coils are not bolted down they are intergrated into the plug cap....

I can now confirm that the Gen2 Heli triple clamp does indeed fit the gen3....

Greg let me know.

R

 
My Honda Accord four cylinder has the coils atop the plugs. Each coil assembly has one bolt securing it to the head cover. The coil doesn't grab onto the plug all that tight so maybe it needs a bit more structural support.

 
I find it very impressive that the two of you are willing to disassemble these two highly sought after, brand new machines and are sharing pics with the rest of us. I am afraid that I would be out selfishly riding it, enjoying it all by myself. Or worse, I'd be at work paying for the bike and the divorce lawyer it would require.

 
I find it very impressive that the two of you are willing to disassemble these two highly sought after, brand new machines and are sharing pics with the rest of us.
I'm having a profound sense of Deja Vu because Warchild's propensity for tearing into a $15.9K toy that doesn't even have a proper license plate yet is EXACTLY how FJRTech.net was born. If anything, I'm hoping he'll dust it off, add a few new articles (Richard too), and update the invaluable resource as a winter project.

 
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Richard,

You will need to leave off the missing mud flap part if your going to install the rear hugger.

 
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Couple of questions for you or Dale. I think it was answered already, but just to make it crystal clear for the slower students: Will the aux light mounting brackets that are already out there--the under-the-mirror type like Top Gun, Skyway, Garauld's, etc., work on the G3? I understand a spacer of some kind will have to be used (or developed). I think the mounting post spacing on the mirrors is right, but I wonder if the length of the posts is adequate to move the mirrors out far enough to take the spacer and the bracket and still get the nut secure.

Also wondering about how secure the mirror and lights would be (as in vibration) with the extra torque on the longer posts--not to mention the extra weight. Do you think if somebody were to drill aluminum billets as spacers, would it help with the strength? The extensions Fred posted about here look pretty close. Think they'd work? And since it would be virtually out of sight under the bracket, what do you think of just stacked washers of some kind instead of the $71 spacer set? Solid enough?

Finally, if the posts were a little short, would there be any clearance issues with using those threaded spacers that are part of the SW Motech kit (and Howie showed in the next post)? I mean the extra diameter or thickness going through the spacer block. Thanks for your thoughts.

 
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I find it very impressive that the two of you are willing to disassemble these two highly sought after, brand new machines and are sharing pics with the rest of us.
I'm having a profound sense of Deja Vu because Warchild's propensity for tearing into a $15.9K toy that doesn't even have a proper license plate yet is EXACTLY how FJRTech.net was born. If anything, I'm hoping he'll dust it off, add a few new articles (Richard too), and update the invaluable resource as a winter project.
Correction: FJRTech got started on a $11.5K toy. Inflation you know. ;)

 
Couple of questions for you or Dale. I think it was answered already, but just to make it crystal clear for the slower students: Will the aux light mounting brackets that are already out there--the under-the-mirror type like Top Gun, Skyway, Garauld's, etc., work on the G3? I understand a spacer of some kind will have to be used (or developed). I think the mounting post spacing on the mirrors is right, but I wonder if the length of the posts is adequate to move the mirrors out far enough to take the spacer and the bracket and still get the nut secure.

Also wondering about how secure the mirror and lights would be (as in vibration) with the extra torque on the longer posts--not to mention the extra weight. Do you think if somebody were to drill aluminum billets as spacers, would it help with the strength? The extensions Fred posted about here look pretty close. Think they'd work? And since it would be virtually out of sight under the bracket, what do you think of just stacked washers of some kind instead of the $71 spacer set? Solid enough?

Finally, if the posts were a little short, would there be any clearance issues with using those threaded spacers that are part of the SW Motech kit (and Howie showed in the next post)? I mean the extra diameter or thickness going through the spacer block. Thanks for your thoughts.

The original Gen I brackets (ala Top Gun) that have the small wrap around arm will NOT work on the GenIII, unless you dremel off the arm.

If you have other Gen I brackets that do not have the wrap-around arm.... keep them, you'll be in luck soon.

IIRC, the Top Gun brackets for Gen II do not have this little support arm, though these brackets are noticeably thicker than the Top Gun Gen I brackets. Keep them, they should be able to be re-used on Gen III.

Other Gen II brackets should move over to the GenIII just fine, once the new spacers are perfected.

Re: simple stack of washers under the older brackets: I am trying this tonight out of interest, but I am not inclined to go this route. A complete spacer is indicated, in my opinion. FJRForum fabricators are busy a-fabricating, believe me. ;)

The mirror mounting posts do show every indication that they are long enough to do the job.

We will all know for certain in about a week's time. Trust me. ;)

 
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I got the Heli Triple clamp mounted today along with the GPS,Escort and auto com......now to feed some wires....

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Couple of things i noticed today are that the side panels are now foam lined...

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And the ABS system looks a little different...

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R

 
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Hello all from Tropical OZ.

I am a former Gen 2 owner, seriously thinking about a Gen 3....I currently ride a very modded 2010 Busa (LSL Bars, lowered pegs, Yoshi cans and a flashed ECU).

Very interested in your observations on the Gen 3. She sure looks good. Much nicer than the barge-like Trophy!

:)

 
ok so the tank is now off.....

The tank comes off just the same as the Gen2, when you get it off the only difference is this.....

The throttle cables on the right side.

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The throttle cables are connected to the right side of the TB's but i can't see whats underneath....

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Are they physical cables going to the throttle bodies? I thought it had fly by wire throttles - i.e. electronic?

 
Liking the way under the *hood* is looking. With a pairectomy and no plug wires to mess with, maintenance will be easier than ever!

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Thanks for digging into the new scoot Richard. Can't wait to check one out in the flesh.

--G

 
Yeah, that ain't flybywire...them's mechinikal.

I do like the placement of them and they look like they will be easier disconnect from the throttle bodies and get out of the way for valve checks

 

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