Oil Filter Purolator 14612

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Since I need to import my Purolator filters from the US, I usually buy 5 or 10 units at a time. The defective filters we've been discussing were part of my most recent order of 5 filters.

The first filter of the new type leaked, leaving an oil patch across half of Japan since this happened during my recent ride (my FJR was marking it's territory I guess). Anyway, I happen to currently have both the old (good) and the new (bad) types of this same Purolator PureOne 14612 filters, so having just done an oil change I figured I would try to identify any other, more significant differences than just the slight difference in the color of the gasket, since that's not a very good indicator as the rubber can discolor over time...

As you can see from the pics, it looks like the new version of this filter has the inside threaded part protruding, almost concave shape, vs. the old (good) version where this section was distinctly convex, hence I believe enabling that last 1/4 turn which created a secure gasket seal.

I have just used one of the old type so will be able to report on it after this weekend's ride.

Two of each type side by side, just to eliminate any doubts, all 4 of my new type looked the same. The new (bad) filters are the top two.

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A close up of each version of the filters, the new (bad) filter is on the left in this pic.

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And since I still had one of the rather old version of the 14612 I compared against it too, same conclusion...

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That's the exact same problem that has plagued the Bosch filters. They changed the shape of the bottom plate from concave (innie) to convex (outie) . The threads bottom out on the standpipe before you can get the gasket tight. I wonder if the same factory is making the Bosch and Purolator filters

 
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Hammer mechanic can fix these.
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Seriously though, thanks for the heads up. I'll be opening the box before paying for sure. Seems easy enough to spot.

 
Just for grins...

I stopped by to the local Pep Boys (in ManchVegas) who seems to have a better array of filter brands than the other auto parts chains.

I inspected what they had on the shelf for Purolator (Pure 1, Regular, and Synthetic media), Bosch, Mobil 1, K&N and (ugh) Fram.

As we know, "outies" are a no go on the FJR and the old "innies" work fine.

Purolator regular L14610 had an outie

Purolator regular L14612 had an outie

Purolator Pure 1 PL14610 had an outie

Purolator Pure 1 PL14612 had an innie

Purolator Synthetic PSL14610 had an innie

Purolator Synthetic PSL14612 had an innie

I also compared the labels on all the Puro filters and they are all made in the USA in South Carolina somewhere.

The Bosch filter had an outie - It did not say where in the USA it was made

The Mobil 1 filter (M1-110 I think) has an innie

They did not have the right K&N for the FJR

The Fram filters (all the varieties) have a completely different looking bottom plate. They look like they should seal, but I pretty much hate Frams, so I passed.

I decided to buy the Puro PSL14610 because I am a sucker for the marketing (it was the most expensive Puro at $12), I like the idea of a longer filter for more media, and it wasn't puke yellow.
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I have been using the Purolator L14610 on my '08 for every oil change and have experienced no difficulties what so ever.

This filter is concave not convex. And that is the way them come from Walmart.

 
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I have been using the Purolator L14610 on my '08 for every oil change and have experienced no difficulties what so ever.This filter is concave not convex. And that is the way them come from Walmart.
Correction.

They pulled a fast one, Purolator that is. Before going to SW-FOG I changed the oil and filter in the '08.

I used a new L14610 from Wallmart instead of one of my "old ones" not realizing anything had changed.

I just came back from Walmart and just for curiosity sake I purchased a new L14610. I compared the two.

Guess what? They come in two flavors now. The old ones are concave and the new ones are convex.

It appears the black rubber gasket on the new version stands taller that the older one.

They both work, no leaks.

Jeeze, I correcting myself.
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I would not trust the convex ones (Purolator or Bosch). Just find a filter that has the old concave shape, even if it's another brand, or buy a bunch of the Yamaha ones at a discount

 
I would not trust the convex ones (Purolator or Bosch). Just find a filter that has the old concave shape, even if it's another brand, or buy a bunch of the Yamaha ones at a discount
On the FJR Owners Facebook page one of the guys suggested machining down the union bolt a little to compensate for the new design of the oil filters. He'll be trying this idea out on his FJR, and see if it works with the "outie" Purolator filter. If it does he'll be offering this as an inexpensive service to FJR owners.

 
This is exactly why I run OEM parts. I have way more important sh.. to worry about.
Yamaha simply while labels some OEM oil filter, I don't think they make their own, superior filter. If this "outie" design is the new industry standard, than the so called Yamaha oil filters will become even more expensive since Yamaha will no longer be able to buy these cheap and in bulk...

 
This is exactly why I run OEM parts. I have way more important sh.. to worry about.
Yamaha simply while labels some OEM oil filter, I don't think they make their own, superior filter. If this "outie" design is the new industry standard, than the so called Yamaha oil filters will become even more expensive since Yamaha will no longer be able to buy these cheap and in bulk...
And they'll still be a working filter that won't leak and I won't have to worry about it.

 
The Yamaha filters have an o-ring seal, not a gasket like the others. Yamaha has changed the P/N and the filter design has varied a little bit over the years. No sealing issues using them for 10 years on cycle/sled/atv.

 
So, if you order the new Yammy filters, won't they likely be the new short version (after the supply of the older version runs out)?

 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="JamesK" data-cid="1235543" data-time="1433688226"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="PhilJet09" data-cid="1235519" data-time="1433676014"><p>This is exactly why I run OEM parts. I have way more important sh.. to worry about.</p></blockquote>

Yamaha simply while labels some OEM oil filter, I don't think they make their own, superior filter. If this "outie" design is the new industry standard, than the so called Yamaha oil filters will become even more expensive since Yamaha will no longer be able to buy these cheap and in bulk...</p></blockquote>

Likely not exactly that way. They don't just slap a Yamaha sticker over some existing other brand filter.

These companies that make oil filters (like champion for example), are "contract" manufacturers. They will build to "spec" for anyone.

Yamaha likely has a "spec" that they put out for bid Periodically to the market and one of the manufacturers wins the bid and makes a run of filters.

Yamaha "spec" might specify an "O" ring as opposed to a basic thin seal for example.

Either way, it is not just any ol' filter.

 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="JamesK" data-cid="1235542" data-time="1433688071"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Fred W" data-cid="1235516" data-time="1433673853"><p>I would not trust the convex ones (Purolator or Bosch). Just find a filter that has the old concave shape, even if it's another brand, or buy a bunch of the Yamaha ones at a discount</p></blockquote>

On the FJR Owners Facebook page one of the guys suggested machining down the union bolt a little to compensate for the new design of the oil filters. He'll be trying this idea out on his FJR, and see if it works with the "outie" Purolator filter. If it does he'll be offering this as an inexpensive service to FJR owners.</p></blockquote>

Machining down? His bike? To get a $5 oil filter to fit?

Am I missing something or does this seem like using a nuclear bomb to dig a hole for a backyard pool!?

Just use some other filter. Mobil 110 for example. Sire it's $9 but grinding away at my bike to save a few bucks just seems unholy or something.

 
The current Yamaha filter is tiny small. It's also used in outboard engines. Locally I can buy this filter for less at a Yamaha marine store.

I'll probably start using the Fram Tough Guard filter since the Purolator I've used may now be leaky.

 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="JamesK" data-cid="1235542" data-time="1433688071"><p><blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Fred W" data-cid="1235516" data-time="1433673853"><p>I would not trust the convex ones (Purolator or Bosch). Just find a filter that has the old concave shape, even if it's another brand, or buy a bunch of the Yamaha ones at a discount</p></blockquote>

On the FJR Owners Facebook page one of the guys suggested machining down the union bolt a little to compensate for the new design of the oil filters. He'll be trying this idea out on his FJR, and see if it works with the "outie" Purolator filter. If it does he'll be offering this as an inexpensive service to FJR owners.</p></blockquote>

Machining down? His bike? To get a $5 oil filter to fit?

Am I missing something or does this seem like using a nuclear bomb to dig a hole for a backyard pool!?

Just use some other filter. Mobil 110 for example. Sire it's $9 but grinding away at my bike to save a few bucks just seems unholy or something.
MrZappo you're making way too big of a deal out of this machining down thing, we're talking about a $7 bolt here after all, part #5. Bolt, Union 90401-20145-00 90401-20007-00

Once this simple mod is done, you'll be free to use any oil filter on the market with a compatible thread. Say you're on a ride and need to change oil on the road, no more issues of trying to find a now obsolete filter design or waiting around for the overpriced Yamaha "whale foreskin" oil filter to get delivered... Besides, I still believe that the Purolator PureOne filters are far superior to the white-labeled filters Yamaha sells at a premium.



 
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Hmm, could some filter end caps have been installed in the capper machine upside down? Maybe a sleeve or two, and they were not detected during production?

 
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