Oil Filter Purolator 14612

[BkerChuck]

Bring this back up.

Purolator L14610 purchased at Wally World. Proper concave base. Sealed up fine and running it for just over 3k miles until Monday when it decided to start leaking! Saw a small amount of oil in the garage where I normally park and initially blamed the wife's Harley. Yeah, really. We'd just had some work done on it for an oil leak so it was the obvious culprit. Get home from work yesterday and decide to go change hydraulic fluid in clutch and brakes and see more oil! WTF? After close examination the oil filter is now leaking from it's sealing area against the engine block. It's been fine for almost 3400 miles. Oil loss is so minute I can't notice any change in the sight glass. I have a new Yamaha oil filter at home and I'm going to stop and pick up fresh Rotella T on my way home. Just wanted to give a head's up that apparently this can come on without warning at any time.

Certainly a first for me.

 

[Fred W]

Yours is not the same problem. Did you try to tighten the filter a bit more?

 

[BkerChuck]

Filter was still tight. Didn't mean this to be a thread hijack, wanted to give a head's up about a problem I'd never encountered before that I felt may relate.

 

[JamesK]

Yours is not the same problem. Did you try to tighten the filter a bit more?

Interestingly, mine was similar, i.e. didn't start leaking for the first 1,500 miles, and then only during certain points in the engine temp cycle.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I switched from the Purolator L14610 to a Fram TG7317.

No leaks with the Fram. The color scheme also works well with my '04.

A filter is a filter when you change at a 4K interval.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Mountain's FJR is in my garage with a Purolator filter. It's leaking like a Harley with a hole in the case. How the Hell am I supposed to go horsebeat his bike if it won't hold oil?

Haha....

 

[gixxerjasen]

People sure do give you strange looks if you sit in the middle of the oil filter aisle and proceed to open all the boxes looking at the filter and then setting them aside. I really didn't think there was any activity I could come up with that would look odd in WalMart, but sure enough. Ended up coughing up the $$$ for a Bosch.

 

[Ptaaty]

I have been using the Bosch 3323. It's black with an easily removable sticker. Good enough ratings, no issues. For me it also works with my Honda Civic...so I ordered 6 at once and was able to hit under $5 shipped. (one of those auto places for $3.XX each with $10 flat shipping). All of mine are the older "concave" design with the old label design a well.

 

[JamesK]

So Ptaaty just wondering if you seen any of these Bosch 3323 filters with the "outy" fitting, which has been showing up in the Puralator filters or are these also hit and miss now, requiring visual inspection.

I have been using the Bosch 3323. It's black with an easily removable sticker. Good enough ratings, no issues. For me it also works with my Honda Civic...so I ordered 6 at once and was able to hit under $5 shipped. (one of those auto places for $3.XX each with $10 flat shipping). All of mine are the older "concave" design with the old label design a well.

 

[Ptaaty]

So Ptaaty just wondering if you seen any of these Bosch 3323 filters with the "outy" fitting, which has been showing up in the Puralator filters or are these also hit and miss now, requiring visual inspection.

I have been using the Bosch 3323. It's black with an easily removable sticker. Good enough ratings, no issues. For me it also works with my Honda Civic...so I ordered 6 at once and was able to hit under $5 shipped. (one of those auto places for $3.XX each with $10 flat shipping). All of mine are the older "concave" design with the old label design a well.

I have not, all mine are concave/innies. That said there is a thread which discusses Bosch 3323 having the same issue as the Puralator....some are showing as convex/outys, those also have a different/sticker or label. I had a box of 6 come in about 2-3 months ago and all are old style / innies. I am thinking based on these threads (bosch and puralator) that I might order some more...and if I get outies use them in the car and keep all my innies for the FJR. I would not use anything that had an outie unless it was by yamaha and had an accompanied design feature which ensured proper seal.

 

[HotRodZilla]

I looked for filters yesterday so I can change the oil of the Exxon Valdeze parked in my garage. It has a Purolator 14610 on it currently. When I looked at them at Walmart, they had an innie that wasn't really and innie. The Bosch 3323s were gone.

Because I know the Purolator leaks, I looked for the only brand left. I opened a Fram Tough Guard. The innie on that is substantial. Even the gasket has a different feel. Bosch and Purolator have changed something, even if it's just the depth of the innie, that's causing it to leak.

I've run the Fram before, and it will work just fine. Maybe later I'll go look at the Mobile 1 filters at Auto Zone, but the prices of the Bosch filters are as much or more than the Yamaha filter. No idea why anyone would use that in lieu of the Yamaha brand that we all know fits.

 

[JamesK]

I am surprised that none of the good folks on the forum who have the expertise and equipment to machine down the Union Bolt #5 (90401-20145-00) to make the new filter design (and the old design) work properly are not getting in on this action. The new Union Bolt is only $8.45 from PartZilla.com so cheap enough to buy some to modify them and either offer these as exchange items or as a new sale part. Based on my experience with the kind of leakage from the new outy filter design, you would only need to machine like a couple of mm off the surface of the Union Bolt, I would be the first customer

.

Replacing the Union Bolt is not much harder than changing the oil filer, so anybody can do it, and then buy any filter you want.

Maybe Dave from WynPro should take this job on?

 

[08FJR4ME]

I am surprised that none of the good folks on the forum who have the expertise and equipment to machine down the Union Bolt #5 (90401-20145-00) to make the new filter design (and the old design) work properly are not getting in on this action. The new Union Bolt is only $8.45 from PartZilla.com so cheap enough to buy some to modify them and either offer these as exchange items or as a new sale part. Based on my experience with the kind of leakage from the new outy filter design, you would only need to machine like a couple of mm off the surface of the Union Bolt, I would be the first customer

.Replacing the Union Bolt is not much harder than changing the oil filer, so anybody can do it, and then buy any filter you want.

Maybe Dave from WynPro should take this job on?

I am trying not to take on any more work. Maybe when I ritire or get downsized I can do more. Right now I keep plenty busy enough. But thanks anyway.

Dave

 

[Fred W]

One problem is that we do not know for certain how much the union bolt's hex area would need to be relieved to accommodate all of these "outie" type filters. If we knew all the dimensions and thread pitches on each side, we might find that one already exists that would work?

I mentioned earlier that it is a common mod to retrofit Suzuki engines with a different union bolt that allows the use of these same type filters. This is done because the thread of the stock union bolt is unique to Suzukis which force you to buy their filters. or expensive MC specific replacements. That same union bolt may be what we are looking for, and if so I know of a source for those.

 

[gixxerjasen]

but the prices of the Bosch filters are as much or more than the Yamaha filter. No idea why anyone would use that in lieu of the Yamaha brand that we all know fits.

Simple. Walmart is right around the corner and I'd rather shop at Walmart than walk into my local Yamaha dealer. That should tell you something. There's better dealers but they are much further away than my Walmart.

 

[Fred W]

It is also my belief that the better quality Purolator (Pure One) or Bosch filters are superior filters to the Yamaha OEM based on the dissected cartridge media.

Then Yamaha went and unilaterally downsized the filter cartridges (reducing the available media inside) specified for the FJR so that they could carry fewer models of filter to cover their entire motorsports lineup. That suggests that maybe the Yamaha filter isn't necessarily the best filter available. Is it a big deal? No absolutely not. I'm sure that the Yamaha mini filter is perfectly adequate for the job.

I guess a better question is: Why not use an alternate filter?

 

[RaYzerman19]

Food for thought...... most filters typically will take out 30 microns or larger "dirt", that's about 0.001". I believe Pure One's filter down to 20 microns, but they don't recommend them for bikes due to potential of lesser flow (I still use them). Any contaminants are suspended in oil, and should be small enough to float in the clearance gaps between bearing surfaces without causing anything other than normal wear. Your bike has a pretty much closed system, so contaminants are likely to be carbon particles and gasoline from blow-by, or moisture, not handfuls of sand or gravel. While I also believe more filter media is usually better, if you do your oil changes at recommended intervals, you shouldn't have any problems with a smaller filter. So, in reality there is no need to be obsessive about filters, they never really get close to clogging if you change them with regular oil changes. And of course the usual change at the 600 mile first interval where the filter may have captured some metal particles upon new engine break-in. May be a bit of blasphemy, but as an alternative, an OEM Honda filter will fit if you're concerned about the smaller size of the latest OEM Yammy filter.

What bothers me most is there seems to be some change of source that has caused dimensional differences (alledged innie that leaks, would like to hear more on that one) or errors (innie's vs. outies).

 

[HotRodZilla]

I was only referencing cost of Bosch vs. Yamaha filter. Jasen gave a good answer. On that same note, I don't know how many times I've called and the FJR filter wasn't in Albuquerque. Maybe since they standardized them they're here now, but I got a group of filters a while back, so haven't needed to ask. I used my last one at my last oil change.

As with the FJR's oil filter, I've also noticed it's a bear to try to find an air filter locally. Have to order most times, which irritates me. It may be good that Yamaha changed the oil filter as it seems some places don't stock parts for them.

I guess if they don't sell many, they don't expect to repair many.

 

[gixxerjasen]

Pure One's filter down to 20 microns, but they don't recommend them for bikes due to potential of lesser flow (I still use them).
While I also believe more filter media is usually better, if you do your oil changes at recommended intervals, you shouldn't have any problems with a smaller filter.

Just thinking out loud here. Wouldn't the larger filter though allow for more flow than a smaller filter?

 

[stealth1]

Has anyone experienced the convex problem with any motorcycle specific filter?

Other than OEM there are several companies that market motorcycle filters. A quick search found 3 brands ranging from $4 to $12 and change.

I wonder if the change to convex is to address an issue with some automobiles.

I would change filter brands a helluva lot quicker than changing out the mounting bolt.

Just me I guess.

Scroll down to engine and see 5 filter choices.

https://www.jakewilson.com/Parts-Finder/-/-/9185/2008-YAMAHA-FJR1300