Oil Filter Purolator 14612

[RaYzerman19]

While I had the bike on the lift the other day, and was doing an oil change, thought I would measure how far the hex on the union extends past (outward) of the filter sealing surface. About 0.22". Previously I had measured some older filters and found they were about 0.24" or more gasket surface to where the hex on the union might bottom out. I made a small cardboard template for quick measure, which I can take when I buy filters. I know the Purolator Classic L14610 I have on hand will not work without a modified hex on the union.

As a matter of interest, Purolator is revising their line yet again, now we can get perty red or blue??? You guys that want to colour match might want to check it out.

https://www.pureoil.com/

 

[JamesK]

I've been running the modified Union bolt (that a friend machined down for me per Norman's specs) for the past 3 oil/filter changes, using the "outie" PureOne filters with ZERO problems.

I'm still puzzled why anyone using after market oil filters is still procrastinating on doing this no brainer mod, especially since Norm has these readily available now....

MODIFIED UNION BOLTS AVAILABLE.
Finally got a furnace installed in my garage, updated my tooling and worked out the details so I can make a batch of modified union bolts for those who want them.

Cost will be $30, including 1st class USPS in USA. Price includes a new union bolt, so you don't need to send me your old one.

Please order before April 1 (riding season starts and I'll be riding!)

How to order: PM me with your email address and say you want info on the FJR Union Bolt Modification.

You will receive a reply with an order form and instructions.

I have a few of these bolts in stock, that I can ship right away, but am at the mercy of Yamaha parts suppliers if we get into a back-order situation. (This is not a frequently needed replacement part!)

Here are some pics comparing modified and unmodified parts...

Stock union bolt screwed into a new-style "outie" filter.

The problem: Hex part of union bolt is too thick and prevents sealing compression of the rubber sealing ring.

Union bolt before (Left) and after (Right) modification.

Modified union bolt screwed into new-style "outie" filter.

Modified union bolt provides additional clearance needed to compress rubber sealing ring.

Norm Kern

 

[RaYzerman19]

Norm, you should bring a handful to the SEOR......

 

[El Toro Joe]

Norm, you should bring a handful to the SEOR......

Mentioned that to Norm, on facebook...

 

[NormKern]

Norm, you should bring a handful to the SEOR......

Mentioned that to Norm, on facebook...

It would be nice to have an idea of how many to bring.

Norm Kern

 

[El Toro Joe]

Norm, you should bring a handful to the SEOR......

Mentioned that to Norm, on facebook...

It would be nice to have an idea of how many to bring.

Norm Kern

Norm, you might want to post your question in the SEOR thread.

 

[Birdman2010]

I've been running the modified Union bolt (that a friend machined down for me per Norman's specs) for the past 3 oil/filter changes, using the "outie" PureOne filters with ZERO problems.

I'm still puzzled why anyone using after market oil filters is still procrastinating on doing this no brainer mod, especially since Norm has these readily available now....

MODIFIED UNION BOLTS AVAILABLE.
Finally got a furnace installed in my garage, updated my tooling and worked out the details so I can make a batch of modified union bolts for those who want them.

Cost will be $30, including 1st class USPS in USA. Price includes a new union bolt, so you don't need to send me your old one.

Please order before April 1 (riding season starts and I'll be riding!)

How to order: PM me with your email address and say you want info on the FJR Union Bolt Modification.

You will receive a reply with an order form and instructions.

I have a few of these bolts in stock, that I can ship right away, but am at the mercy of Yamaha parts suppliers if we get into a back-order situation. (This is not a frequently needed replacement part!)

Here are some pics comparing modified and unmodified parts...

Stock union bolt screwed into a new-style "outie" filter.

The problem: Hex part of union bolt is too thick and prevents sealing compression of the rubber sealing ring.

Union bolt before (Left) and after (Right) modification.

Modified union bolt screwed into new-style "outie" filter.

Modified union bolt provides additional clearance needed to compress rubber sealing ring.

Norm Kern

Thanks for making this post. I just sent a PM to Norm.

 

[Birdman2010]

It is winter so I am getting bored. I did some research and discovered that the "Bypass PSI" is an important consideration when choosing your oil filter. I learned that the bypass psi is the pressure differential between the inflow and the outflow. When you accelerate hard, the bypass needs to allow unfiltered oil to pass to the engine so the parts are still lubricated well. The Yamaha oil filter has a bypass psi of 8 psi. The Wix 51356 has a bypass psi of 8-11 psi. The Mobile 1 M1-110 has a bypass psi of 13 psi. The Purolator L14610 and L14612 have bypass psi of 14-18 psi.

Something to think about as we wait for the mountain twisties to warm up...

 

[SLK50]

That might explain the top end knocking I hear with the Purolator filter.

 

[Punkinhead]

That might explain the top end knocking I hear with the Purolator filter.

A few years ago a friend and I were on a trip and his Tiger would make awful top end noises on cold mornings until the bike warmed up a bit. It sounded like cam chain slap to me, but I can't say for sure. He swapped the Purolator filter he had on there for OEM and the sound went away. That cured me of any desire to save money on oil filters.

 

[Fred W]

It is winter so I am getting bored. I did some research and discovered that the "Bypass PSI" is an important consideration when choosing your oil filter. I learned that the bypass psi is the pressure differential between the inflow and the outflow. When you accelerate hard, the bypass needs to allow unfiltered oil to pass to the engine so the parts are still lubricated well. The Yamaha oil filter has a bypass psi of 8 psi. The Wix 51356 has a bypass psi of 8-11 psi. The Mobile 1 M1-110 has a bypass psi of 13 psi. The Purolator L14610 and L14612 have bypass psi of 14-18 psi.
Something to think about as we wait for the mountain twisties to warm up...

Curious where you got the spec for the stock filter. I've never seen that number before.

The primary reason for the bypass is for if/when the filter media becomes dirty and clogged and restricts the oil flow too much. Most owners change their filters often enough that the bypass never activates.

 

[08FJR4ME]

It is winter so I am getting bored. I did some research and discovered that the "Bypass PSI" is an important consideration when choosing your oil filter. I learned that the bypass psi is the pressure differential between the inflow and the outflow. When you accelerate hard, the bypass needs to allow unfiltered oil to pass to the engine so the parts are still lubricated well. The Yamaha oil filter has a bypass psi of 8 psi. The Wix 51356 has a bypass psi of 8-11 psi. The Mobile 1 M1-110 has a bypass psi of 13 psi. The Purolator L14610 and L14612 have bypass psi of 14-18 psi.

Something to think about as we wait for the mountain twisties to warm up...

Curious where you got the spec for the stock filter. I've never seen that number before.

The primary reason for the bypass is for if/when the filter media becomes dirty and clogged and restricts the oil flow too much. Most owners change their filters often enough that the bypass never activates.

Googled it,

The Bypass Valve

Under ideal conditions, the bypass valve will never open. When it opens, the oil by passes the filter and goes on through to the motor, obviously unfiltered. It is a safety valve. However, in real operation, it opens often.

One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting.

Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.

A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.

If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.

If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

 

[Fred W]

Good point about the cold oil, Dave. I forgot about that. Not so sure about the bypass at higher rpm thing.

My question to Birdman was about the 8 psi relief spec that he quoted. Not sure where he got that from, but it's wrong.

From the FJR Factory Service Manual specifications section:

Oil filter
Oil filter type Cartridge (paper) ----
Bypass valve opening pressure 78.4 ~ 117.6 kPa
(0.78 ~ 1.18 kg/cm2, 11.15 ~ 16.72 psi)

So it seems like those aftermarket filters will bypass just fine.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Comeon Fred, if it's on the Internet, it must be true. What I found interesting was that the OEM filter opens at 8psi, but every other filter has a range within 3-5psi before the bypass kicks in.

I'll as call BS on the bypass opening every time we throttle the bike. If that's the case, there's no reason to have a filter, if dirty oil is constantly being let past the medium. Hell, I can only imagine what's going on with my truck when I'm towing.

 

[Birdman2010]

Curious where you got the spec for the stock filter. I've never seen that number before.

@Fred W: I hit a lot of websites yesterday. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find the page that gave me the bypass PSI for the Yamaha OEM filter.


RossKean has 164,000 miles on his FJR so I highly respect his input:

" I don't have 200,000 miles on my bike but do have 164,000 miles (so far). I have never needed to add oil between changes and have never had any mechanical issue with the engine. I change filter every other oil change and am not particularly anal about change intervals; especially with the synthetic oil. I have let it go over 8,000 miles if on a long road trip. I mostly use Rotella full synthetic 5W40 oil and whatever (relatively higher-end) filters that are on sale. I have probably used the Mobil M1-110 more than any of the others. I sometimes use the Rotella conventional oil - especially lately with the price of the synthetic going up. "

Here are some interesting links that I found during my surfing yesterday.

* Yamaha pushes their filters as higher quality. Is this true or is it just marketing?

 

[Birdman2010]

Good point about the cold oil, Dave. I forgot about that. Not so sure about the bypass at higher rpm thing.
My question to Birdman was about the 8 psi relief spec that he quoted. Not sure where he got that from, but it's wrong.

From the FJR Factory Service Manual specifications section:

Oil filterOil filter type Cartridge (paper) ----

Bypass valve opening pressure 78.4 ~ 117.6 kPa

(0.78 ~ 1.18 kg/cm2, 11.15 ~ 16.72 psi)

So it seems like those aftermarket filters will bypass just fine.

Nice! Thank you for the FJR Factory Service Manual quote.

 

[RossKean]

The point of the post I made that you cited part of, above, was mostly that, IMHO, there are no rules that are going to make a lot of difference when it comes to oil and filters.

Any filter that doesn't leak should be OK. Look out for ones that have a concave rather than convex base (convex tend to leak) - a number of previously compatible filters will now leak because of a design change (Some of the Purolator and Bosch filters). I prefer to use a higher-end (i.e. more expensive) filter because it makes me feel better, not that I have certain knowledge that it is better. (I also mentioned that Fram filters are not made by the minions of hell with the explicit purpose of ruining your bike - I think at least some of their filters are as good as any other.) Changing filter every second oil change is sufficient (as per Yamaha). Even if a filter (OEM) tends to be more expensive than another, what does that translate into when you look at overall operating costs?

Change oil regularly. Some do every 5,000 miles as per recommendation and easy to remember. Especially if using synthetic for a long trip, don't worry if you go over (even quite a lot over!). Long, high-mileage days are far easier on the oil (and engine) than a long succession of short hops where the oil may not even get up to full operating temperature. If you ride a reasonable amount and are changing your oil every 3,000 miles you are throwing money away! Use an oil that meets specifications. 5W40 to 20W50 - anything in there should do it. Make sure it isn't an "energy-conserving" oil that MIGHT cause slippage with your wet clutch. I mostly use the Rotella oils (synthetic or dino) but there is no magic here. The diesel spec'd oils are generally less expensive than motorcycle-specific oils but Rotella prices have increased quite a bit in the past couple of years.

Most of all, just ride the beast. As long as you keep up with the routine maintenance and pay attention to warning signs of incipient problems, the bike will last a good long time. Definitely don't get wrapped up in filter specifications!

 

[Birdman2010]

The point of the post I made that you cited part of, above, was mostly that, IMHO, there are no rules that are going to make a lot of difference when it comes to oil and filters.
Any filter that doesn't leak should be OK. Look out for ones that have a concave rather than convex base (convex tend to leak) - a number of previously compatible filters will now leak because of a design change (Some of the Purolator and Bosch filters). I prefer to use a higher-end (i.e. more expensive) filter because it makes me feel better, not that I have certain knowledge that it is better. (I also mentioned that Fram filters are not made by the minions of hell with the explicit purpose of ruining your bike - I think at least some of their filters are as good as any other.) Changing filter every second oil change is sufficient (as per Yamaha). Even if a filter (OEM) tends to be more expensive than another, what does that translate into when you look at overall operating costs?

Change oil regularly. Some do every 5,000 miles as per recommendation and easy to remember. Especially if using synthetic for a long trip, don't worry if you go over (even quite a lot over!). Long, high-mileage days are far easier on the oil (and engine) than a long succession of short hops where the oil may not even get up to full operating temperature. If you ride a reasonable amount and are changing your oil every 3,000 miles you are throwing money away! Use an oil that meets specifications. 5W40 to 20W50 - anything in there should do it. Make sure it isn't an "energy-conserving" oil that MIGHT cause slippage with your wet clutch. I mostly use the Rotella oils (synthetic or dino) but there is no magic here. The diesel spec'd oils are generally less expensive than motorcycle-specific oils but Rotella prices have increased quite a bit in the past couple of years.

Most of all, just ride the beast. As long as you keep up with the routine maintenance and pay attention to warning signs of incipient problems, the bike will last a good long time. Definitely don't get wrapped up in filter specifications!

RossKean, thank you for the clarifications. I will be very pleased if I can hit 164,000+ on my FJR like you have achieved with your bike. I purchased a modified union bolt from NormKern. This modified union bolt should eliminate any problems with the new Bosch and Purolator filters. NormKern shipped it out immediately and I should receive it any day now. I will install it with my next oil change.

 

[RossKean]

Good luck! The engine really is one of the most reliable ones out there and will serve you well as long as you don't abuse it.

 

[Fred W]

...and a lot of us do just that!