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It was a little difficult, but I was able to put BMW grips on with OEM heated grips. Are the new ones different?

The hardest parts is giving up the beautifully routed wires thought the OEM grips but seems you can change them out if you want to.

 
It was a little difficult, but I was able to put BMW grips on with OEM heated grips. Are the new ones different?

The hardest parts is giving up the beautifully routed wires thought the OEM grips but seems you can change them out if you want to.
So I'll ask again, why not use grip puppy sleeves over the OEM grips? They work well on BMW heated grips and should also on an FJR.

 
I noticed a round pushbutton? on the left handlebar which I think may be the cruise power switch. Is this a maintained or a momentary switch? One of my cars has a maintained switch for this function -- I don't have to power up the cruise every time I switch on the ignition. In another car it's a momentary switch -- I have to press the switch after every "key on" to activate the cruise.

Does this cruise also include a "cancel" feature similar to what's on most cars?

 
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It was a little difficult, but I was able to put BMW grips on with OEM heated grips. Are the new ones different?

The hardest parts is giving up the beautifully routed wires thought the OEM grips but seems you can change them out if you want to.
So I'll ask again, why not use grip puppy sleeves over the OEM grips? They work well on BMW heated grips and should also on an FJR.
The heating elements appear to be directly ingrained in the grip material, so for me, I am reasonably sure these grips will remain on the bike.

I will likely try out a set grip puppies at some point, but for now, my #1 item of pursuit is dealing with the mirror recesses.

 
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I noticed a round pushbutton? on the left handlebar which I think may be the cruise power switch. Is this a maintained or a momentary switch? One of my cars has a maintained switch for this function -- I don't have to power up the cruise every time I switch on the ignition. In another car it's a momentary switch -- I have to press the switch after every "key on" to activate the cruise.
I believe the latter is the case with the Gen III bike, however, I haven't thoroughly investigated this yet. The round pushbutton you mention is indeed the CC switch, and it is momentary.

Does this cruise also include a "cancel" feature similar to what's on most cars?
Several cancel features, all of them typical for a motorcycle. The Cruise Control disengages whenever one of the following occur:

  • Actuating the clutch handle
  • Actuating the front brake handle
  • Stepping on the rear brake lever
  • Purposely rotating the throttle *forward* (as you would when normally throttling back engine speed)


The latter was interesting to discover. If you find you want to speed up to pass someone when riding with the CC engaged, you can roll on the throttle as you normally would, and when your pass is complete, let go of the throttle and the CC will resume its previously SET speed.

But it you purposely roll off the throttle while the CC is engaged, the SET position is lost (i.e.: CC is disengaged), and must be reset.

 
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Does this cruise also include a "cancel" feature similar to what's on most cars?
{Warchild reply}: Hitting the round button a second time achieves this.

Do you mean that you can't RESUME when the CC is disengaged by a throttle roll-back, but have to SET your speed again? I assume that RESUME works for the first three methods you list.
{Warchild reply}: Yes, you are correct... I did a marginal job trying to explain this, I suppose. You can "resume" when any of the four CC disengaging actions (described above) are taken.

 
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FIRST LOOK: GenIII Battery Compartment

Another much requested photograph: the first look underneath the right dash cowling, into the battery compartment:

BatteryArea.jpg


As you can see, there is some amount of available space for farkling opportunities... look at that good hefty gap of space between the relays attached to the back of the VRLA battery, and the outboard side cowling! ;)

Can't speak to the GenIIs, but this battery compartment is certainly a far cry from the GenIs, that's for sure.

For one thing , all eighteen (18! :blink: ) fuses are located here. There are two (2) Main Fuses. Main Fuse #1 is rated at 50-amps, Main Fuse #2 is rated at 30-amps. Dayumn.

There are two radiator fan fuses, both 10-amp. The ABS system has three (3) fuses associated with it:

  • ABS Control Unit fuse: 7.5-amps
  • ABS Motor fuse: 30-amps
  • ABS Solenoid fuse: 20-amps


The Fly-By-Wire Throttle system has two (2) fuses associated with it:

  • Fuel Injection System fuse: 15-amps
  • Electronic Throttle Valve fuse: 7.5-amps



BattArea1.jpg


There are two Fuse Pods that contain the bulk of the fuses, both are aft (to the left) of the battery in the above pic. You can also clearly see the independent fuse holders (white-colored) for the Brake Light, Cruise Control, and Windscreen.

 
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So it looks to be the same $300 grips we got on the previous generation. Sigh, wish they'd do something different in that department to give us more options while keeping factory heat.

I'm also curious...and I guess we'll have to wait for some technogeek like Warchild to put some miles on his bike, to see what the clutch plates look like with a few k's of miles on them. Dry or wet? Doesn't look like the engine got much attention but I wonder if they've improved the oiling in there to fix some of the dry clutch issues that have popped up.

 
... to see what the clutch plates look like with a few k's of miles on them. Dry or wet? Doesn't look like the engine got much attention but I wonder if they've improved the oiling in there to fix some of the dry clutch issues that have popped up.
What dry clutch issues?

And it almost assuredly will have to be some other GenIII owner revealing clutch plates after a few thousand miles, it won't be me. I am not opening up any engine system unless there is something wrong (and even then, DVP will likely be opening it up under warranty.)

Over 100,000 miles on the Gen I bike, the clutch/transmission system were never opened or touch. Ever. I anticipate this bike to be the same in this regard. Over the years, as motorcycle powertrains have become more sophisticated and electronic, I have found that for my needs, it's best just to leave them alone.

Though I realize others have a different perspective on these things... I'll leave it to those guys to play around with Power Commanders, aftermarket exhaust systems, etc, etc. :D

 
That battery bay has tons more room outboard than the Gen II ever had...nice. On the Gen II, the lip of the fairing passes right along the outboard edge of the battery, making access to the space outboard a lot tougher....clearly not the case with a Gen III.

 
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... to see what the clutch plates look like with a few k's of miles on them. Dry or wet? Doesn't look like the engine got much attention but I wonder if they've improved the oiling in there to fix some of the dry clutch issues that have popped up.
What dry clutch issues?

And it almost assuredly will have to be some other GenIII owner revealing clutch plates after a few thousand miles, it won't be me. I am not opening up any engine system unless there is something wrong (and even then, DVP will likely be opening it up under warranty.)

Over 100,000 miles on the Gen I bike, the clutch/transmission system were never opened or touch. Ever. I anticipate this bike to be the same in this regard. Over the years, as motorcycle powertrains have become more sophisticated and electronic, I have found that for my needs, it's best just to leave them alone.

Though I realize others have a different perspective on these things... I'll leave it to those guys to play around with Power Commanders, aftermarket exhaust systems, etc, etc. :D
I believe the implied reference is to the desired "clutch soak" procedure "needed" on previous brand new Generations...

 
So it looks to be the same $300 grips we got on the previous generation. Sigh, wish they'd do something different in that department to give us more options while keeping factory heat.

I'm also curious...and I guess we'll have to wait for some technogeek like Warchild to put some miles on his bike, to see what the clutch plates look like with a few k's of miles on them. Dry or wet? Doesn't look like the engine got much attention but I wonder if they've improved the oiling in there to fix some of the dry clutch issues that have popped up.
I don't consider it a chronic problem with Gen IIs. More likely a sporadic manufacturing issue that of course gets overblown on the internet. I can tell you that the clutch on my 3300 mile 09 FJR is smooth as buttah. :)

 
I think the dry clutches were more prevalent on AEs because many of those sat on stealers floors longer between manufacture and purchase. Certainly these first two G3's have not stood long anywhere, only a month or less from born-on date to first rides. Plus the auto clutch bikes would be more susceptible to having driveability symptoms as a result of less than optimukm clutch engagement. With a hand operated clutch the carbon based operator could make quick adjustments to any funky slip zone.

I think the way that the forward upper faring shape has been "ballooned" a bit, as evidenced by the need for the recesses at the mirror mounts, is why there is more room for farkling. Considering that the aesthetics do not seem to be negatively compromised, I see this as a bonus feature.

Good stuff.

 
Yea, I wasn't meaning to spark a debate. And if you don't want to open it then cool, I just figured the brainchild of fjrtech would be opening things up. :D

Maybe a wingerized bike (Not warchilds) will need to be opened up after sitting for a while. Dunno. I'm just really curious if they changed the oiling in there from the so called "Splash" method.

Anyway, back on topic....we need a proper ride report, pronto!

 
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