What did you do to your FJR today?

[RossKean]

So, how did the swingarm look when you got it apart. Thinking about doing my 2007 one of these days...

I've been hoping you would finally get off your arse and just do it! I've never done the swing arm on my '07 either.

Yeah - just one of those things...

Since I had the battery (and battery box) out to remove and replace my repaired radiator, I decided to finally replace my battery. I bought it near the end of last season figuring that it couldn't possibly survive much longer. It was still working just fine but I really didn't need another battery sitting around (10 yr., 168,000 miles). I will keep the old one as a backup.

 

[rbentnail]

So, how did the swingarm look when you got it apart. Thinking about doing my 2007 one of these days...

I've been hoping you would finally get off your arse and just do it! I've never done the swing arm on my '07 either.

Yeah - just one of those things...

Since I had the battery (and battery box) out to remove and replace my repaired radiator, I decided to finally replace my battery. I bought it near the end of last season figuring that it couldn't possibly survive much longer. It was still working just fine but I really didn't need another battery sitting around (10 yr., 168,000 miles). I will keep the old one as a backup.

I'm still on my original battery too. 9.5 yrs, 99k miles. 3 or 4 yrs ago I thought that it couldn't last much longer but it keeps going.

 

[gapiob]

Grassing the harm relay. At 96000 km, all it's okay.

 

[creg-ny-baa]

Briefly eyeballed a 58K mile "15

at a local dealer. Wallet is happier.

 

[Uncle Hud]

gapiob posted: Grassing the harm relay. At 96000 km, all it's okay.

Not making a joke .... what the hell are you saying, mon frere? And I'm glad that it's OK.

 

[Fred W]

Greasing the relay arm maybe?

 

[RossKean]

Service day tomorrow, I think.

Valve check

Clean throttle bodies (first and probably the only time!)

Change plugs

New coolant

I am hoping that the valve check is a non-issue. I haven't done them in 40,000 miles or more but they were set to just a bit wider than halfway on all of the intakes at that time (first adjustment ever required @130,000 mi). Exhaust valves have always been OK.

Any tricks for removing the tool tray, airbox and throttle bodies? (Gen II) Looks like it could be complicated but, like most service items, I hope it's easier than it appears.

I was thinking about trying Haulin' Ashe's Seafoam enema through the TBS ports before the valve check but 1) I'm chicken, 2) I don't have any Seafoam at home and 3) If I get the Seafoam and do it tomorrow, the bike would have to sit for most of a day to cool completely to ambient temperatures before doing the valve check. Maybe I'll do it afterward. Maybe I won't...

Next week, my replacement plastic expansion (overflow) tank should arrive. I will re-torque the engine bolts and exhaust headers at that time since at least the left side fairing has to come off to replace the tank. I'm still chasing a bit of vibration and noise I noticed after removing my radiator for repair earlier this week.

Bunch of other stuff to do as well but it can be put off for a little while.

 

[gapiob]

Greasing the relay arm maybe?

Yes, sorry.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Started making and putting my blue reflective decals on the 2015 grey destroyer.

I am going to do some more today. ME LIKES IT A LOT !!!! I can't post pictures right now. I need to find a new photo account.

Sorry,

Dave

 

[rbentnail]

Service day tomorrow, I think. Valve check

Clean throttle bodies (first and probably the only time!)

Change plugs

New coolant

I am hoping that the valve check is a non-issue. I haven't done them in 40,000 miles or more but they were set to just a bit wider than halfway on all of the intakes at that time (first adjustment ever required @130,000 mi). Exhaust valves have always been OK.

Any tricks for removing the tool tray, airbox and throttle bodies? (Gen II) Looks like it could be complicated but, like most service items, I hope it's easier than it appears.

I was thinking about trying Haulin' Ashe's Seafoam enema through the TBS ports before the valve check but 1) I'm chicken, 2) I don't have any Seafoam at home and 3) If I get the Seafoam and do it tomorrow, the bike would have to sit for most of a day to cool completely to ambient temperatures before doing the valve check. Maybe I'll do it afterward. Maybe I won't...

Next week, my replacement plastic expansion (overflow) tank should arrive. I will re-torque the engine bolts and exhaust headers at that time since at least the left side fairing has to come off to replace the tank. I'm still chasing a bit of vibration and noise I noticed after removing my radiator for repair earlier this week.

Bunch of other stuff to do as well but it can be put off for a little while.

While you got things so opened up, IMHO you should consider checking your ground spiders.

 

[PhilJet09]

Service day tomorrow, I think. Valve check

Clean throttle bodies (first and probably the only time!)

Change plugs

New coolant

I am hoping that the valve check is a non-issue. I haven't done them in 40,000 miles or more but they were set to just a bit wider than halfway on all of the intakes at that time (first adjustment ever required @130,000 mi). Exhaust valves have always been OK.

Any tricks for removing the tool tray, airbox and throttle bodies? (Gen II) Looks like it could be complicated but, like most service items, I hope it's easier than it appears.

I was thinking about trying Haulin' Ashe's Seafoam enema through the TBS ports before the valve check but 1) I'm chicken, 2) I don't have any Seafoam at home and 3) If I get the Seafoam and do it tomorrow, the bike would have to sit for most of a day to cool completely to ambient temperatures before doing the valve check. Maybe I'll do it afterward. Maybe I won't...

Next week, my replacement plastic expansion (overflow) tank should arrive. I will re-torque the engine bolts and exhaust headers at that time since at least the left side fairing has to come off to replace the tank. I'm still chasing a bit of vibration and noise I noticed after removing my radiator for repair earlier this week.

Bunch of other stuff to do as well but it can be put off for a little while.

I don't take the tray out, just remove all the screws and hold it up, so I can wiggle the air box past it. I find it a lot more difficult to get everything all back together. The rubber connectors on either side of the throttle bodies are sometimes difficult to get all lined up. Some kinda want to fold under and inside, so a bit of lube (very little) helps things slide back together. Also, don't forget the drain hose on the air box. If it gets left off, you'll suck dirty air into the engine side of the filter.

 

[RossKean]

While you got things so opened up, IMHO you should consider checking your ground spiders.

I always do when I encounter one. Don't think I'm going to expose any of the particularly vulnerable ones with this work that haven't already been dealt with. Will keep an eye on it.

I don't take the tray out, just remove all the screws and hold it up, so I can wiggle the air box past it. I find it a lot more difficult to get everything all back together. The rubber connectors on either side of the throttle bodies are sometimes difficult to get all lined up. Some kinda want to fold under and inside, so a bit of lube (very little) helps things slide back together. Also, don't forget the drain hose on the air box. If it gets left off, you'll suck dirty air into the engine side of the filter.

Thanks for the tips, Phil. Haven't done this before but probably due after 170,000 mi. I have a fusebox in the tool tray - not a lot of stuff hooked to it but hope it doesn't need to be disconnected.

 

[RossKean]

Well crap! I was hoping that the valve check would be just that (a check). One intake on #4 was right at minimum and the other was 0.13 mm. (Exhaust still OK.) Pull the cam and get them both to 0.20 by sanding. Wasn't being careful so I thoroughly sanded one finger tip while I was at it - quite painful. Had to go out to get carbide paper (thought I had some). Went out to get O-rings for the coolant pipe (thought I had some). Trip up to work to see if I could find a couple replacement SS Allen head for the coolant pipe (mine were pretty crapped up - couldn't find any so reused the old ones after cleaning them up). Another trip to get some carb cleaner and Seafoam (two things at once!). Thoroughly disgusted with myself so didn't even bother with the throttle body cleaning! Probably would have messed it up somehow. I did remember to change plugs - I think there was close to 40,000 miles on the conventional NGK CR8E. Took almost all day to do a job that should have been accomplished in maybe three hours!

Fired it up and rode a few miles to make sure everything was working OK. No issues but I had sort of hoped that this might have helped with the "buzz" I have been noticing since I removed and replaced the radiator. (No such luck) When the replacement expansion tank comes next week, I will retorque the engine bolts to see if that helps. Thinking about a trip to Newfoundland next week and I am hoping that the patched radiator holds up OK. Would hate to find myself stranded in St. Anthony with a punched rad!

 

[Uncle Hud]

Fred W posted: Greasing the relay arm maybe?

gapiob posted: Yes, sorry.

No apologies necessary, mon frere. Couldn't understand because I have VERY limited maintenance experience.

 

[bigjohnsd]

Baby got a new pair of Shoes!

Ready for a run West with Festar.

Got to love these Avon Storm 3DX-M, Quality Control must be good, no weight required on the front, 1/2 oz on the rear. The PR2 that came off the rear took 2 oz, granted it was a used tire.

 

[El Toro Joe]

Got the call from the insurance adjuster yesterday...stopped at the dealer on my way home, and they were in the process of ordering all of my new parts...hope to have the bike back in my garage in a couple of weeks. Woohoo!!!

 

[eflyguy]

Well crap! I was hoping that the valve check would be just that (a check). One intake on #4 was right at minimum and the other was 0.13 mm. (Exhaust still OK.) Pull the cam and get them both to 0.20 by sanding.

I'm pretty certain that's a really bad idea, as the shims are surface hardened..

 

[Fred W]

Nope. They aren't. No need to harden them. They sit on top of the valve stem and under the hardened bucket, so there is no frictional wear involved.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Making one more stripe decal to add to the bike and them I am done. Hope to finish tonight. Got the OK from the boss to order my T-Rex protectors. I will be doing that when I get home also. Hope to have everything buttoned up by NERDS meet up. It's been a long process and I still have more fun stuff to make but the rest can wait.

Dave

 

[eflyguy]

Nope. They aren't. No need to harden them. They sit on top of the valve stem and under the hardened bucket, so there is no frictional wear involved.

I stand corrected. I have no first-hand knowledge, just what I've always been told/read.

It is interesting, however, that the Gen II FZ1 has a rare issue with valve stems that were not hardened correctly, requiring replacement as they "shortened" over time to where they could no longer be shimmed.