What did you do to your FJR today?

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Finally Finished the the old girl and took her out for a ride only 50 Ks but that was all good

Check it out full respray looks great in silver

a0745ea0-96ac-4f52-9b63-c570ed8200d9_zps0c97eff4.jpg


 
Installed new Corbin seat. It's actually heavier than my Russell.
Did you replace your Russell with a Corbin? If so why? Thanks.
My plan is to have the Corbin for around town and short rides and the Russell for the long rides and trips. I love the Russell for the all day comfort but because of the seats cup and wings I have to change my riding position/style and couldn't get comfortable in the twisties. Also the seat height is a bit of an issue. I have a 30" inseam and have to tip-toe Porky (my FJR) with the Russell and now with the Corbin, it lowers the seat position almost 2" compared to the Russell (1" from stock) so I can be flat footed and more stable.

 
What did I do to my bike today... does what I did yesterday count? If so, flushed brakes (front & rear), changed rear brakes out completely, checked front. Cleaned 2 switches. Just a few more things to do & I'm ready to go for this year!

 
I pulled the clutch slave cylinder and made up a jig to help me push the piston and started flushing the clutch cylinder.

 
Discovered that my steering head bearings are shot. I have the forks off for service and could really feel the waver in the bearings when working the triples from lock to lock. Tried disassemble, clean, reassemble still heavy pulsing in the steering action.

So, time for some AllBalls. Step 1 remove lower bearing race. FSM suggests this chisel method.

SteeringLowerRace.jpg


I know most like to just Dremel their races off, but I thought I would try the FSM method. Here is what I got for my efforts. Boogered tripple (my fault bad aim); and tagged my stem:

lowerInnerRemoval_1.jpg


I believe this to be cosmetic but I'm still pissed I F'd it up. I'm stepping away from it until Tue. when I can get a second set of hands and experience involved. I'm going to try heat before opting to cut the thing off.

I did have some burs on the stem from the chisel bounce that I cleaned up with some steelwool. Since the point of impact is above the bearing contact area, I got away with one here.

 
Discovered that my steering head bearings are shot. I have the forks off for service and could really feel the waver in the bearings when working the triples from lock to lock. Tried disassemble, clean, reassemble still heavy pulsing in the steering action.
So, time for some AllBalls. Step 1 remove lower bearing race. FSM suggests this chisel method.

SteeringLowerRace.jpg


I know most like to just Dremel their races off, but I thought I would try the FSM method. Here is what I got for my efforts. Boogered tripple (my fault bad aim); and tagged my stem:

lowerInnerRemoval_1.jpg


I believe this to be cosmetic but I'm still pissed I F'd it up. I'm stepping away from it until Tue. when I can get a second set of hands and experience involved. I'm going to try heat before opting to cut the thing off.

I did have some burs on the stem from the chisel bounce that I cleaned up with some steelwool. Since the point of impact is above the bearing contact area, I got away with one here.
Just use a Dremel cut off wheel and make a cut into the race, it's so easy it will pop apart.

 
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FWIW, the scratch will not impair smooth movement of the steering head. The new race will fit right over it. Don't worry about it.

 
You may want to wait untill you have the new bearing to make a cut. So you can see the contour of the back side. Cutting thru wouldn't hamper operation, but it might piss you off ;)

 
You don't need to cut all the way through, it will break apart from the tension, cut it at a 45 deg angle

.

 
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Discovered that my steering head bearings are shot. I have the forks off for service and could really feel the waver in the bearings when working the triples from lock to lock. Tried disassemble, clean, reassemble still heavy pulsing in the steering action.
So, time for some AllBalls. Step 1 remove lower bearing race. FSM suggests this chisel method.

SteeringLowerRace.jpg


I know most like to just Dremel their races off, but I thought I would try the FSM method. Here is what I got for my efforts. Boogered tripple (my fault bad aim); and tagged my stem:

lowerInnerRemoval_1.jpg


I believe this to be cosmetic but I'm still pissed I F'd it up. I'm stepping away from it until Tue. when I can get a second set of hands and experience involved. I'm going to try heat before opting to cut the thing off.

I did have some burs on the stem from the chisel bounce that I cleaned up with some steelwool. Since the point of impact is above the bearing contact area, I got away with one here.
NIKK.......curious as to how many miles on your FJR??

 
Filled up with fuel and got a respectable 49mpg.
Getting MPG like that, I think my grandmother could keep up with you.

No comment.........
smile.png


Adjusted stock suspension, 2 lines showing, 8 top adj, 8 lower legs, 8 rear w/stiff setting.Rode it thru local canyon, front end very harsh/stiff over bumps, corners well, and rear feels planted.

Any thoughts on front end?
umnik.gif
Air pressures are 40 and40
Front tire pressure is fine, though I'd go up to 42 in the rear.

Harsh over bumps means the front compression damping is too high. Just go CCW on the lower fork leg adjuster 1-2 clicks at a time until it goes away.

Could be rebound damping too. In fact, that is the first one I would try playing with.

Finally Finished the the old girl and took her out for a ride only 50 Ks but that was all good
Check it out full respray looks great in silver

a0745ea0-96ac-4f52-9b63-c570ed8200d9_zps0c97eff4.jpg

Looks schweeeeet! VERY nice. Except those rear crash bars without the bags installed are kind of FUGLY. Kind of like my ears..........

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Adjusted stock suspension, 2 lines showing, 8 top adj, 8 lower legs, 8 rear w/stiff setting.Rode it thru local canyon, front end very harsh/stiff over bumps, corners well, and rear feels planted.

Any thoughts on front end?
umnik.gif
Air pressures are 40 and40
Front tire pressure is fine, though I'd go up to 42 in the rear.

Harsh over bumps means the front compression damping is too high. Just go CCW on the lower fork leg adjuster 1-2 clicks at a time until it goes away.

Could be rebound damping too. In fact, that is the first one I would try playing with.
This is where it becomes somewhat subjective because we are relying on rider feedback and what the rider means by "harsh". If the rider feels that when the bike first hits a bump that there is too much feeling being transferred into the bars and it feels that the bike is being launched upwards then that is too much compression damping.

If the bike feels that after hitting the bump the front wheel has lost contact with the road surface then there is too much rebound damping. This can also feel like vague steering in the corner as the wheel doesn't stay in contact with the road and tends to skip very slightly.

Having said all this it is important to remember that adjustments to either rebound or compression have an effect on the other. With the current suspension designs your compression and rebound settings as to the number of clicks should not be that far from each other as a general guide.

All this assumes that the spring sag was set correctly since sag and ride height is the first step in getting your suspension working correctly.

 
Valve check yesterday - close but still "in spec" on four intakes. All I have left to do is air filter, hydraulic systems flush, lube rear suspension pivots, swingarm service, shifter/brake pivot lube, u-joint/spline service, wiring for some auxilliary lights and get the Penske shock serviced. At this rate, it should be ready to go sometime in June!

 
Ordered a pair of BT 023 GTs ready for a trip to Spain at the end of this month.

 
Rode Jackie-O to work this morning. Was about 55 degrees. Had a couple of smokes sitting on her while waiting to go through the turnstyle.

 
Could be rebound damping too. In fact, that is the first one I would try playing with.
Time to don the black arts wizard hat that doens't fit me in the least.

If the bike is harsh over bumps, compression damping first. It could be rebound, but only after multiple bumps that are forcing the forks to 'pack down'. To much rebound in that case.

Fred's right, when adjusting, do compression first. Then rebound.

 
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