HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
And here is the solution to this ******** CEL problem. You can thank me later:
Last edited by a moderator:
That cured my CEL issue for a couple thousand miles.And here is the solution to this ******** CEL problem. You can thank me later:[img=[URL="https://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/rodzilla134/Mobile%20Uploads/1219_60.jpg%5D"]https://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/rodzilla134/Mobile%20Uploads/1219_60.jpg][/URL]
That's great if you're not worried about knowing if something serious really goes wrong. I'm in the middle of a 4,500 miles trip and would like the system to be functioning as designed, albeit a flawed system.And here is the solution to this ******** CEL problem. You can thank me later:
My ES was inoperable while the CEL was on. I could switch between hard, standard and soft, but could not fine tune any of them.Are there still issues with the cruise and/or the ES being disabled while the CEL is on? That would truly suck and Yamaha needs to come up with this fix ASAP.
Yea, I already have an SAE plug on the battery that's used for the tender and air pump. I've thought about re-routing that plug to pull double duty (it currently sits in the side fairing). I just happen to have a few spare coax cables laying around and a barely used Fuzeblock.Just a thought - but I'd go with the SAE. It can power the air compressor. Leaves your Coax free for the heated liner, and use the SAE to charge phone, etc while you ride.
+1 for SAE, I had the coax (powerlet) port on my '05, that powered my tank bag when riding, air pump when needed, and used for battery charging in winter, but that connector was a lot more finicky and prone to corrocion, etc.than a good old 2 pin SAE battery tender cable / cord. That is what I have on my '14 now, it comes out from the battery up near the fork stem, and it serves all the same purposes, but more reliably and weather resistant, maybe even cheaper?Finally had a moment to do a post-NAFO oil change yesterday; she's up to 18k miles in 13 months. Also spent some more time fussing over how I'm going to power my new Givi tank lock bag. Instead of buying Givi's power kit ($$), I bought a 5 port USB charger (up from a one port Warm 'n Safe charger), cut the cigarette plug off the end, and now I'm having an endless self-debate on whether to use an SAE or Coax connector for the connection between the bag and power system. Once that's decided, power will come from the Fuzeblock under the seat...just have to make a decision, lol. My old tank bag was powered by the coax I use for heated gear (via a Y cable from under the seat), but the new bag's waterproof port is in the front, so I want to put in a dedicated line up there.
Enter your email address to join: