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wireless realtime tire pressure monitor

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Warchild, Thank you for your quick reply.

I have these instructions and I even printed them out for the mechanic, they are the ones I was referring to as well as the ones which came with the kit, …

I think what we (my mechanic and I) are both confused about is the following:

Are the valve and the mating inside female threaded transmitter holder supposed to “clamp” onto the rim (aluminum) perfectly without any space, or is the spring supposed to “pull” the valve into the valve hole on the rim with enough force to make the air pressure seal.

Maybe I have a bad one as I did notice while test fitting the parts that the valve (in my kit at least) doe not easily thread into the mating “nut” with the transmitter on it. In fact it was very difficult to thread on even a few threads, I chalked it up to a locking-thread design to maintain tightness without any adding of a lock-tight like product, but maybe I received valves with the wrong thread, is this possible, anyone else have similar non-easily threading parts? Anyone use a different seal on their 2005 FJR?

Is the spring only there to keep the transmitter “floating” above the inside rim surface so it doesn’t touch the rim?, because if the answer to this is YES, then we just need to continue to tighten mine to close the gap we currently think the spring is supposed to take up with outward spring tension.

Note: This is being installed on my 2005 FJR1300 w/ABS.

-Jon

 
Well, I can not advise, as I still have not installed these.

My LDL kit is destined for my Blackbird, and I've been trying to find time to mount the new Avon Storms on the bike for quite a while. Until I do, I obviously can't install the kit. I just can't seem to get to it, too many concurrent projects going on... :angry:

Guess you'll need to ping on Freshmeat., as he is the only one I see in this thread who has actually installed it.

Is the spring only there to keep the transmitter “floating” above the inside rim surface so it doesn’t touch the rim?, because if the answer to this is YES, then we just need to continue to tighten mine to close the gap we currently think the spring is supposed to take up with outward spring tension
From just a quick glance through the PDF file, I think it is suppose to float.

But I also think you should email VancoSport and verify to make sure, unless Freshmeat can chime in with a definitive answer. A quick glance at the PDF is hardly a good substitute for actually having done it

 
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Warchild, Thank you for your quick reply.
I have these instructions and I even printed them out for the mechanic, they are the ones I was referring to as well as the ones which came with the kit, …

I think what we (my mechanic and I) are both confused about is the following:

Are the valve and the mating inside female threaded transmitter holder supposed to "clamp" onto the rim (aluminum) perfectly without any space, or is the spring supposed to "pull" the valve into the valve hole on the rim with enough force to make the air pressure seal.

Maybe I have a bad one as I did notice while test fitting the parts that the valve (in my kit at least) doe not easily thread into the mating "nut" with the transmitter on it. In fact it was very difficult to thread on even a few threads, I chalked it up to a locking-thread design to maintain tightness without any adding of a lock-tight like product, but maybe I received valves with the wrong thread, is this possible, anyone else have similar non-easily threading parts? Anyone use a different seal on their 2005 FJR?

Is the spring only there to keep the transmitter "floating" above the inside rim surface so it doesn't touch the rim?, because if the answer to this is YES, then we just need to continue to tighten mine to close the gap we currently think the spring is supposed to take up with outward spring tension.

Note: This is being installed on my 2005 FJR1300 w/ABS.

-Jon
Just read the post. the spring in the kit is meant to hold the sensor up and only to act as a damper in case of vibrations and road bumps and not to hold both sides onto the rim. the two metal parts of the valve (inside of the rim and outside of the rim) should be tightened to each other in order to seal both sides of the valve. there should be a very good seal between both metal parts(and rubber o-ring) in order for the tire not to lose pressure. both metal parts should be able to screw into each other with NO resistance at all. please check if there is anything within the threads that may obstruct the easy rotation of both sides. i also need to know if it is the front or rear rim. I Will be opening up one of the kits i have here with me so i may take some pics for all to see.

[SIZE=24pt]UPDATE[/SIZE]

i just called the Factory and informed them about the problem. they are sending me new valve heads with a longer threaded neck (24mm) Just in case some members have problems with fitting. the standard one is 21mm long. Some models may not need the longer neck, so please check if it is ok. Don't worry, you have full support of the french factory ;)

 
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it seems that both sides of the kit are not revolving into each other easily. meaning there is either an obstacle or thread irregularity. please have your mechanic check the threads of both parts. in fact both nut and screw should rotate freely and clamp onto the rim perfectly. This means that it is not the length of the screw but the thread. Nothing to worry about. the factory is waiting for a report on this specific issue ;) I had the chief technician on the phone yesterday for this issue, and he confirmed verbally that this is nothing to worry about. Have your mechanic check it out and we will solve the problem for you ;)

 
[SIZE=18pt]UPDATE[/SIZE]a few pics of the contents of the kit + a very nice video showing how easily both parts of the kit should screw into each other.

[SIZE=18pt]VIDEO LINK CLICK HERE !!!!![/SIZE]

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Thanks for all the help: Warchild & Vancosport, ...unfortunately I have not had the time to stop by my mechanics shop to further evaluate the parts and the attempt at installation due to my recent schedule being so hectic. I should be able to get over there sometime this Saturday.
I do know, the parts I received did not easily screw together at all, in fact my mechanic reached the torque level for final tightening before the part was even near seating the valve firmly enough to make a 35psi air pressure seal, which is why he thought the spring was supposed to make the valve seal and not the thread pressure, …but I want to stop by the shop and see for myself and I will take some photos and either post them or send them to Vancosport for evaluation and then await the solution, either case thanks Vancosport for getting back to me and providing support. I apologize for the long pause in getting back to you.

I will know more in a couple of days, thanks again.

-Jon


Sorry for not responding earlier [out of town last week and didn't see your question until this evening].

I had the same issue with the valve stems - there seems to be quite a bit of friction in the threads. As a result, getting a decent seal took more than the 4.2 Nm (3.4 Ft-lb) torque recommended in the instructions. However, the valves hold pressure just fine once the o-ring gets a reasonable amount of compression. Note, however, that the sensor unit should NOT end up flush with (touching) the rim. It looks as if the gap + the spring provides vibration / shock isolation of the sensor unit.

regards,

Doug

 
fjrjon you have PM ;)

Freshmeat, as long as the sensor is not touching the rim, it's ok. Just wanted to know at what torque value you have it tightened.

 
Freshmeat, as long as the sensor is not touching the rim, it's ok. Just wanted to know at what torque value you have it tightened.
Not quite sure what the torque ended up being. The mechanic at the dealership he couldn't get the valve stem to seat if he stayed below the spec'd torque -- too much friction in the threads (?). We ended up hand tightening the valve stems until the o-ring was seated.

 
Freshmeat, as long as the sensor is not touching the rim, it's ok. Just wanted to know at what torque value you have it tightened.
Not quite sure what the torque ended up being. The mechanic at the dealership he couldn't get the valve stem to seat if he stayed below the spec'd torque -- too much friction in the threads (?). We ended up hand tightening the valve stems until the o-ring was seated.

that's just fine as long as the plastic part does not touch the rim.

 
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Vancosport,

This is a thank you letter which is sort-of long overdue. Vancosport did everything they could to help my situation. You see, …a little more than a month ago I actually had the time to initiate the receiver of the WiFi tire pressure monitoring system I purchased from this group buy back in December of ’06. One ride with a fresh battery installed in the receiver unit, traveling about 12mph (20kmph equivalent) for about 3 to 4 minutes and there it was!, …both tire pressures and temperatures where on the display, …YAHOO I thought to myself. Now after having put several hundred more miles on after the initiation of the receiver/display to the transmitters (inside the tires) –I really don’t know how anyone rides without one of these, …it should be standard equipment on all vehicles.

Anyway, I just wanted to convey my full gratitude and sincere thanks for helping me out with getting this installed and up and running, and if anyone has any doubts regarding the Vancosport system, it is the best one out there and the support staff is by far one of the best I have ever dealt with. Thank you again Vancosport. :)

Jon

 
It's a great system - I had it installed and I have been using it successfully since February!

My only comments are:

1) Make sure to stock up on the batteries for the receiver @ Wal-Mart as they are very short-lived with lots of use (couple of months).

2) Temperature isn't accurate for outside temp (not a problem with a second gen bike).

Best Regards,

Shane

 
Shane: Did your unit change the temperature units to Fahrenheit? Mine defaults to C and won't change.

**Update**

Vancosport tells me that on motorcycle units, they don't display Fahrenheit because of character spacing (which I assume to mean the number of digits, because F will often go to 1xx degrees, where C will not).

Anyone have different experience? At least the thing does PSI.

On a happier note, they do display tire pressure. Not sure about battery life, but it turns itself off after you're stopped so I can't see needing batteries alot unless you're using the backlight alot.

It won't (AFAIK) display anything until you're moving. So, no morning tire pressure check before leaving the house.

 
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