LED H4 replacements (at the risk of being labeled 'search defective')

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This guy does a side by side comparison on camera, jump to 23:00 for the side by side comparison, its not pretty. Ill be holding off on this "upgrade" for a while.

It is a good primer on changing the bulbs though.

 
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I have been running the fanned H4 from Cyclops for about 30,000 miles. There is another thread on ADV discussing these lights. I am extremely pleased with the output on multi day rallies running at night when compared to Replacement H4 HIDs. The service is great, the quality very good and I think Justin at LEDRider is a distributor. I was so happy to pull the igniter and ballasts out of the FJR and don't think I'm giving up anything. Happy customer.

 
This guy does a side by side comparison on camera, jump to 23:00 for the side by side comparison, its not pretty. Ill be holding off on this "upgrade" for a while.
It is a good primer on changing the bulbs though.
Thanks for that find. Looks looks I'll be staying with the newest Philips or Osram premium halogen bulbs when my Night Breaker Plus' burn out. Happy enough with those, was hoping for even better from LED's.

 
I read through the entire ADVrider thread (all 25 pages of it!) and most people have been thrilled with the H4 LED replacements. I have to wonder whether the individual who did the video (above) did something wrong with the install or had a defective bulb??

The thought of (much) lower power consumption, much longer lifetime plus whiter and brighter light is almost irresistible but I will wait for some more comparisons (or improved product) before I spend a hundred bucks on these.

HIDs are proven performers but I don't want to mess with ballasts and do not care for the solenoid-activated Hi-Lo beam selection.

 
Last night Bryan produced a followup video. He did install it "wrong". That is, he installed what he received without modification and followed the directions that came with the lights and were on the website.
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The manufacturer advised him to modify the kit and reinstall. Results were different, and he got more light and wider spread. But still has some problems with the design. I would put them in the category where some, even most, owners would ignore. He has a point about the resulting legality of the modified installation. His concern about the lack of weatherproofing, though partial mitigation is conceivable, also makes sense over the long haul.

 
The LED lights I got is a different design, the element is on top and bottom, for Hi and Low, I was able to reinstall the rubber boot with no modification, the fan screws on the back after I install the boot.

I got them from Amazon $74.00, Newsun High Power Cree-cxa 1512, 3600Lm

 
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The LED lights I got is a different design, the element is on top and bottom, for Hi and Low, I was able to reinstall the rubber boot with no modification, the fan screws on the back after I install the boot.I got them from Amazon $74.00, Newsun High Power Cree-cxa 1512, 3600Lm
I would prefer an installation that did not require a fan. I suspect the LEDs will outlive the fan by quite a long time. I will be interested to see how these ones work for you in terms of beam pattern and brightness. From the updated video from the guy that was using the ADV fanless lights, I don't think I am quite ready to try those ones.

I am thinking the future of automotive lighting will be LED but the current choices are possibly not ready for prime time. Part of the problem is that the reflectors used in the FJR (and other) headlights are not optimized for these bulbs.

 
The LED lights I got is a different design, the element is on top and bottom, for Hi and Low, I was able to reinstall the rubber boot with no modification, the fan screws on the back after I install the boot.I got them from Amazon $74.00, Newsun High Power Cree-cxa 1512, 3600Lm
Can these be installed without the fans? My prejudice tells me that these are relatively likely failure points.

 
One of his concerns was the heat sink getting wet and degrading the efficiency of the sink. When I was watching it, i was like "whhhhaaaattttt." The point about the electrical connection being face up is a potential issue, but something that is probably easily solved with either a gasket or a non adhesive type of sealant. I'm thinking most of his concerns about tickets are a non issue.

Last night Bryan produced a followup video. He did install it "wrong". That is, he installed what he received without modification and followed the directions that came with the lights and were on the website.
rolleyes.gif

The manufacturer advised him to modify the kit and reinstall. Results were different, and he got more light and wider spread. But still has some problems with the design. I would put them in the category where some, even most, owners would ignore. He has a point about the resulting legality of the modified installation. His concern about the lack of weatherproofing, though partial mitigation is conceivable, also makes sense over the long haul.
 
Last night Bryan produced a followup video. He did install it "wrong". That is, he installed what he received without modification and followed the directions that came with the lights and were on the website.
rolleyes.gif

The manufacturer advised him to modify the kit and reinstall. Results were different, and he got more light and wider spread. But still has some problems with the design. I would put them in the category where some, even most, owners would ignore. He has a point about the resulting legality of the modified installation. His concern about the lack of weatherproofing, though partial mitigation is conceivable, also makes sense over the long haul.
I don't think the fault was Bryan's at all. I'm SURE it was the design of the LED unit, not that the "cage" wasn't removed during the initial installation.

The units Bryan installed featured the LED emitters clearly pointing left/right on a horizontal plane, parallel to the road. This projects the majority of the light left and right, when the correct aspect would be up and down, or vertical to the road. This is how the beam-spread works with stock OEM halogens AND stand-alone HID capsules...up and down, NOT left and right. On OEM halogens, when the low-beam is lit, the cage on standard OEM bulbs prevents light from hitting the bottom of the reflectors. That's how the low-beam cut-off is generated. When high-beam is selected, the filament is NOT shielded, giving full illumination of the entire reflector.

Looking around the Internet, I found these...(click picture for link)



Take a look at the mounting prongs on the bulb bases...these most assuredly place the emitters in a vertical up/down aspect, rather than the left/right version shown in the TWO videos produced by Bryan.

Here's a video of the above lights.....



Notice, the actual emitters are "sunk" into reflectors in the bulb assembly, so wouldn't be sticking out to blind oncoming drivers like the units Bryan used (without the "cages"). These also don't use a connector prone to water intrusion as the units Bryan tested. Also, as shown in this next picture, the "high" beam and "low" beam emitters are place in the same orientation as standard OEM filaments, i.e., they are different distances from the base of the bulb itself, so the correct portion of the reflectors would be exposed to both the high and low emitters.

dual_beam_2__70257__12607.1410817096.1280.1280.jpg


I do realize getting the rubber moisture shield placed around the bulb bases could be a ******, but with a careful <snip> of the rubber, with the cut portion pointing down, the shield could still be used with no difficulty.

I absolutely applaud Bryan for his various videos AND his opinion on the LED units he tested. I wouldn't use them either, but I think the units from GTRlighting.com deserve a serious look. I know I'll give them a test, even though they are almost double the price of the units Bryan tested.

 
Great post Howie. The GTR bulbs look like they would do the job nicely in the H4 style. The design of the ADV bulbs do not work well in an H4 configuration (projecting the light sideways in the reflector did not make sense to me either) but I think their design would work fine in a projector beam type designed to use a single filament bulb such as 9005, H1, etc. that emits light in all directions.

 
Thanks for that find. Looks looks I'll be staying with the newest Philips or Osram premium halogen bulbs when my Night Breaker Plus' burn out. Happy enough with those, was hoping for even better from LED's.
You mention the Night Breaker bulbs that I just got done fondling.
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I just had my right low beam go out after being installed for the past 4 years. The stock bulbs seem to last a long time, but the Osram Night Breaker bulbs throw more usable light down the road so the shorter life is worth it to me. BTW, the original Osram Night Breaker bulbs only lasted 9 months and 1 year respectively, but the replacements were labeled PLUS for longer life and my experience confirmed over 4 times the life. We'll see how long the left one still burns, but I ordered another set from www.powerbulbs.com to be prepared for what I predict to be at most another 3 months before it goes.

I suppose if the LED bulbs get the bugs worked out, I'll be using those 4 years from now.

For some great reading on aftermarket bulbs, check out: https://www.danielste...ulbs/bulbs.html .

 
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We're getting closer to retrofitted (3rd party) LED bulbs as headlights. As said^, it's still early but they have come a long way as of late. I've tried them last year with mixed results. One thing you guys need to know about all those Chinese ads... when they say 3600LM, they mean in total of both bulbs. BEWARE! These then would be 1800lm capsules and their (China) regulations and standards are pretty loose. So is it really 1800lm or 2400lm per capsule? hmmmm. Just beware is all, all that Chinese LED stuff is pretty iffy. Read some of the FB on eBay. Most comment on how great they look coming out of the box and thank you etc. Not many comment on the actual performance. The ones who do/did? Majority are not satisfied. So be careful you guinea pigs! (and I'm one of you!)

For the ones saying they do not want the fan? Think again, LED's do not like any temps whatsoever. Heat is the big hangup right now on these high powered LED's.

 
The GTR bulb design makes a lot of sense, and I suspect at $189, they are pretty high quality. At $189, I'll continue sitting on this uncomfortable fence rail with my HIDs, and wait for the price to drop a bit. The Newsun LED linked to earlier and favorably reviewed (no pics) is not far off from the design of the GTR. At $74 per pair, this is a bit closer to my budget.

I'm still waiting for some good reviews of the Cyclops H4 bulb, which uses CREE emitters and uses a triangle array that the two top emitters light the top and sides of the reflector, and the bottom high beam emitter lights the lower part of the reflector. Still one of the better concepts, but I'd like to see the results. Jason was going to carry these and run a special, but he has disappeared of late. This review on ADVrider with a single reflector headlight suggest the beam pattern is not up to par with halogen and HID lights, but it is a useful light if aimed lower.

dsc_1862.jpg


 
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Ain't this interesting....I clicked TomInCa's link to take a look at the Newsun led conversions at Amazon and just below the details was a link to THIS.

These look exactly like the GTR units, but at less than half the price!

61do4XCa6SL._SL1500_.jpg


 
good find Howie! Even has the fancy connectors and fans. But these have a green trip ring instead of red.

41-6-GHEmcL._SX425_.jpg


 
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