What did you do to your FJR today?

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Rode a little with a former coworker, traveled 200 miles and went absolutely nowhere. And I ordered https://www.nushield.com/, supposedly the best anti-glare screen for my gps. The kit comes with 2 so maybe I'll try it on my cell phone too.
Please give us a follow up report of how these work out for you, m'kay? :thumbsup:

Today I replaced both my old PR2 tires with a brandy new set of Bridgestone BattleAx BT-023GT tires.

The old rear was pretty much done with almost 10k miles on it. Best that I've ever done with any rear tire. The front only had ~9k miles and probably has another 3k left on it, but it had cupped and was doing the Pilot Road buzz. So I threw it on the loaner pile (in case someone shows up in dire need) and changed to the GT's as a pair.

The old tires were my 4th rear and 3rd front PR2. Overall I'd say I can live with the rear tire performance of the PR's, but the fronts do not inspire confidence. Which puts them in the same category as the Roadsmart 1's IMO. So... still looking for a good front to match with ether of those rears. Hopefully these GTs will be the shizzy.

The GT's have relatively stiff sidewalls, especially the rear, but I was able to get them mounted up using just spoons with no problems at all. And I like that they are balance marked so you can align the yellow dot with the heavy spot of your wheels. The rear required only a single 7gm weight and the front required 3, interestingly at slightly offset locations (2 in one spot and 1 in another)

To scrub them in, TMJ and I made a lunch run this afternoon over to Billy's Chowder House in Wells, ME (we are on vacation this week). I had inflated the tires a bit higher than my usual based on some hear-say recommendations (42F 43R), but I think that is just a bit too high. The turn-in was scary fast and the turning stability seemed less than ideal to me, though it did improve throughout the day. I'm going to go back to 42R 40F, which is what I've always run my tahrs at, and see if I like that feeling better. If they cup, they cup...

 
Today I replaced both my old PR2 tires with a brandy new set of Bridgestone BattleAx BT-023GT tires.

The old rear was pretty much done with almost 10k miles on it. Best that I've ever done with any rear tire. The front only had ~9k miles and probably has another 3k left on it, but it had cupped and was doing the Pilot Road buzz. So I threw it on the loaner pile (in case someone shows up in dire need) and changed to the GT's as a pair.

The old tires were my 4th rear and 3rd front PR2. Overall I'd say I can live with the rear tire performance of the PR's, but the fronts do not inspire confidence. Which puts them in the same category as the Roadsmart 1's IMO. So... still looking for a good front to match with ether of those rears. Hopefully these GTs will be the shizzy.

The GT's have relatively stiff sidewalls, especially the rear, but I was able to get them mounted up using just spoons with no problems at all. And I like that they are balance marked so you can align the yellow dot with the heavy spot of your wheels. The rear required only a single 7gm weight and the front required 3, interestingly at slightly offset locations (2 in one spot and 1 in another)

To scrub them in, TMJ and I made a lunch run this afternoon over to Billy's Chowder House in Wells, ME (we are on vacation this week). I had inflated the tires a bit higher than my usual based on some hear-say recommendations (42F 43R), but I think that is just a bit too high. The turn-in was scary fast and the turning stability seemed less than ideal to me, though it did improve throughout the day. I'm going to go back to 42R 40F, which is what I've always run my tahrs at, and see if I like that feeling better. If they cup, they cup...
Dude...After those Bridgstones are done, try a set of PR3s. Mine have been great, and they seemed to be the reigning tire at the SW-FOG with very few complaints and over 10k on a couple sets.

I never tried the PR2s because of the complaints, but if these PR3s continue to perform as they have and last 9k I'll be sold...Although I am a zealot.

 
I have had my FJR "down" sorta for a few weeks doing mods & upkeep. During this time:

> I changed both the engine & rear end oil.

> mounted a new rear PR2

> Installed a timer for my aux tank fuel cell. You can see in the background my bench is a mess! Tomorrow is garage cleanup day and organize what I'm taking. I'm usually fairly organized but when I get into something & start pulling things off the wall, I get to a point where I got she-ite scattered everywhere!

FJRrack016.jpg


> Built (well had built) & mounted a box for the back that will house my laptop & case - rear door for easy access + mounted lights for extra visibility. I had posts in a trailer wiring thread here a while back and ended up using a hoppy 5 to 4 converter + 4 relays to power the lights outside of my rear light harness. Factory harness was tapped into via an Ardmore wiring harness that I cut in the front to go to the relays, and in the back I used their "QD" for hooking up the lights in the box.

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I am leaving in 2 days for a month long adventure that will take me to Sturgis first - I'm going with a friend; we will be there the week before so good riding before the crowds. I'm leaving the first weekend (maybe before) for not sure yet where but eventually to Beaumont, TX to meet Tony for a BBG attempt to the IBA meet in Denver(it is I that will be the "attempting" part!). Point is I needed to carry my camping gear so came up with this rack system out of stock I had laying around. The supports are big SST U-bolts (cut in half) I had and can be removed easily. I also had a length of aluminum holed angle, so cut that up and mounted it for bungee points. Kinda crude but it'll do the job.

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I deburred the u-bolt halves, but still thought they'd dig into my tent/sleeping bad, so had these vacuum nipples and put them on with some silicone to keep 'em in place.

FJRrack014.jpg


I also wasn't happy with the wobbling of the rear deck, so built these supports that come off the fender up to the bottom of the plate in the back. It is MUCH better! I made the brackets each end, ordered some rod ends from McMaster, and use 1/4-28 all thread covered up by 3/8 SST tubing.

FJRrack006.jpg


What else? I got set back on this project as when I got it all mounted and took for a test ride, I had my abs light flashing & the cruise didn't work. As I had done several things that could've affected it, I had to "back out" off my mods one by one until I found the culprit - it was the LED 1157's I put in the factory rear lights. It didn't like them at all. Now has the stock 1157's in and all is well.

Oh yes, one more thing - I put a powered USB port in my tankbag to charge my phone. Those long riding days are too much for it and esp with the camping, there isn't always a guarantee that I'll find 115v.

Oh, and one one more thing - I got my special Garauld hydration mount on - much better than how I was doing it!

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Dude...After those Bridgstones are done, try a set of PR3s. Mine have been great, and they seemed to be the reigning tire at the SW-FOG with very few complaints and over 10k on a couple sets.

I never tried the PR2s because of the complaints, but if these PR3s continue to perform as they have and last 9k I'll be sold...Although I am a zealot.
That was actually my plan, until Skooter found the GTs at an unbelievably good price, and I have heard many good things about them, both mileage and handling wise as well.

The one knock I've heard about the PR3s is they have so many sipes that when they cup they get really buzzy, like the PR2's do, but worse. The rears look like they would work fine. Seems like that is the conundrum we are in with these bikes. All sorts of great rear tires to choose from: Roadsmarts, PR2's/3s, BT023GTs, even Michelin Exaltos? :eek: but not so many good front tire choices.

PS - Don't tell anyone, but I'm a bigger zealot about most things than you are. :p

 
In prep for a 4 week PA to Co, Utah, OK, TN, AZ, AR, NM, not in that order but I digress.

I wanted to clean my front brakes and pistons, and flip the pads around as has been suggested on the forum here. I removed all pads, marked them on removal flipped them opposite, cleaned what I assume are anti-rattle clips and all the pins. The pins where really coked up and took a very heavy hand with brass brush and 200 grit paper. I always coat the pins with a bit of high temp copper anti-sieze and where it makes contact with the anti-rattle clips.

I also wanted to check the balance of the relatively new Z8, but I really wanted to clean and grease the axle and check the bearings. This was the wheel I replaced when I crushed the front rim on a rock and froze/heated the new bearings in myself. They were fine balance and bearings quick sand of the axle and grease the bearings and cups of the seals and the axle and torque to 66.

So today I wanted to pull the rear brake pedal pivot and clean and grease it. It was not too bad, but cotter pins are my nemesis! And that one is in a bad place for an old busted up guy like me to get too. I used some 200 and 400 grit paper on anything that was flat, and IMHO the pivot needed cleaned as it did have some crude on it and not enough grease to suit me at all, it does now, a tub of grease is cheap. Not a bad job, but for the time you get little bang for your buck, except maybe the rear brake lights lite from a hung up rear brake peddle. Gosh I miss my lift that is not available right now, but hell I digress.

So while I am looking at it laying on carpet in a driveway, in shade though. I look up and see the dog bones and say **** I have not touched any of that in almost 14K and know it is called out on the 16K. OK what the hell the rear brake is not going anywhere. Well the two we can get to easy, the upper bolt in back, the shock one and the lower one. The looked OK to me the, inserts took a little cleaning as there was a shiny spot hear and there but nothing I could feel. The needle bearings are forever strange to me. This is the top one never touched in this picture. However I had sprayed the crap out of it with white lithium grease while wiggling it but still a strange arrangement, metal rollers imbedded in a wax like substance.

14K%20top%20needle%20bearing.jpg


Nothing was loose in any of those three and I used my pinky and smooched it through the ones I could. Sent the sleeve through and did that a few times. And that led me to dammit I want to do that top one! Well I know you got the right way and the other way to do this, I pushed it through and cut it with the Dremel and a cut off wheel!

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I have not researched it through, but think I remember someone saying about reversing the bolt but I do not see how that is going to work and have my doubts, at least with the stock bolt length.

So I went to my handy ACE Hardware and got two choices.

bolt%20choices.jpg


The one is a tad shorter then stock, and the other is more so but not a bunch I would say 1/4" to 5/16". Also worth mentioning is the bolts were really crappy looking and needed dressed up a bunch. I will make sure the bolt and inside the sleaves are well greased.

I did see where one guy cut his center stand on that side but man I do not want to do that as there is not much there when you take an arch out of that flat mount, and it has a cut in the steel, part of the manufacturing process, close to the flat area you need to take out, so do not want to do that.

I have a floor jack and a Black Jack that is a nifty jack so if I need to I think I can get off the ground to remove the center stand.

Anyway that is what I did to my FJR yesterday and today. No stress and I am sure I will sort this bolt length issue out. It really has been fun and a learning experience on stuff that needs done once in awhile and no one wants to do.

Next to do my rear brake pistons and remove and clean pads and service as I did the front pair. Then on to the shifter and service that.

 
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I look up and see the dog bones and say **** I have not touched any of that in almost 14K and know it is called out on the 16K.
Dude, you are one anal mofo! You cut the bolt?!?!?! Important note to self: keep you away from my FJR!

You didn't touch any of that stuff in almost 14k?!?!?! ****, I haven't touched any of that stuff in over 100k!!!!

 
Please give us a follow up report of how these work out for you, m'kay? :thumbsup:
Will do. Heading to Johnson City, Tn for the weekend so the gps will actually get some use.

To scrub them in, TMJ and I made a lunch run this afternoon over to Billy's Chowder House in Wells, ME (we are on vacation this week).
A couple of us were talking/dreaming of Billy's Chowder House the other day. The one and only time I've ever been to Maine included a lobstah lunch there.

 
I look up and see the dog bones and say **** I have not touched any of that in almost 14K and know it is called out on the 16K.
Dude, you are one anal mofo! You cut the bolt?!?!?! Important note to self: keep you away from my FJR!

You didn't touch any of that stuff in almost 14k?!?!?! ****, I haven't touched any of that stuff in over 100k!!!!
Well the dog bones are called out on the 16K Service. The other stuff is just cover my ass kinda stuff.

As I said all the bolts in the dog bone arrangement were really corroded so IMHO they needed done. I do ride in PA and have been on salt, aluminum chloride spray, and lots of rain. I only had done the dog bone area when I installed the Penskey at 0 miles. Never did the brake pedal or my next thing coming the shifter linkage.

Anal for sure, but when you read these things here and what some of the consequences of neglect are I decided to do it. Like I said none of it is to bad just time consuming and I will not go into the top bolt of the dog bone as that guy needs kicked in the nuts. Yes I cut it and they make more every single day :p

Just think, if I ever sell my bike the person should know it was taken care of and I got pictures to prove it :)

 
FLJAB nice setup (and craftsmanship).

I just got Doram TPMS, installed, happy.

Changed front tire (PR3 to PR3).

Cemented on FendaExtenda.

Oil(s)

After six years: new battery (old working fine, but 7 day rally approaching). Wow, bike starts very fast and I get about half volt more pre-start. I've had it for a year, glad I replaced it.

New right mirror.

I'll post some pictures of my Tanji Fuel Tank Upper Decker (no, you can't **** in my toilet) when it arrives from Master Metalworker / PowderCoater: Garauld. Will give me a 2 gallon Coleman jug with weight coming down on passenger seat and tie down points above my pelican case. Excited.

This weekend: fork rebuild, valves, TBS, plugs, bourbon.

What could possibly go wrong?

 
What could possibly go wrong?

LOL finer words have not been said!

I'm all loaded - still trying to upload a pic to photobucket to get the image code to post here - but no luck yet. I could drag out my camera but the cable is packed in the case that's in the new "topbox" that the latch is covered up by my tent that is - well, you get the idea.

 
The mounting screws for the locking mechanism on my Touratech Garmin 665 Mount was coming loose ...

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To gain access to the lock mechanism mounting screws I had to remove the Garmin motorcycle mount so some disassembly was required before I could get everything tightened back up and all back together again.

Using Fred W's thesis on POI's as a starting point I downloaded the Tim Horton's POI file from POI Factory and converted them over to a TourGuide POI file along with the Tim Horton's logo in bmp format and the Tim Hortons Ahead mp3 file. I set the proximity alert to 100 miles so that when I'm travelling in Canada my Zumo is constantly telling me there is a Tim Horton's ahead. I find this very comforting.

I have put the csv, bmp & mp3 files in my dropbox so you to can have at your fingertips every Tim Horton's location (as of June 2011) ...

Tim Horton's TourGuide files

Drink Timmy's & be merry
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Using Fred W's thesis on POI's as a starting point I downloaded the Tim Horton's POI file from POI Factory and converted them over to a TourGuide POI file along with the Tim Horton's logo in bmp format and the Tim Hortons Ahead mp3 file. I set the proximity alert to 100 miles so that when I'm travelling in Canada my Zumo is constantly telling me there is a Tim Horton's ahead. I find this very comforting.
Glad to be of some help in that, but 100 miles? Won't that be a little like the boy who cried wolf?

I do find it comforting to be cruising along and look a down and see I'm driving past one of the little NH State Liquor Store logos on my GPS screen. :p

 
... I set the proximity alert to 100 miles so that when I'm travelling in Canada my Zumo is constantly telling me there is a Tim Horton's ahead. I find this very comforting.
Glad to be of some help in that, but 100 miles? Won't that be a little like the boy who cried wolf?

I do find it comforting to be cruising along and look a down and see I'm driving past one of the little NH State Liquor Store logos on my GPS screen. :p
It takes me about 100 miles before I want another coffee. I just want to be sure one will be ready when I get there.
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Change Plugs (standard plugs) ,did the Barbarian Jumper Mod, and my first TBS (previous were shop :angry2: )

BJM

Cyl / Before / After

1 / 5 / 12

2 / 18 / 25

3 / 18 / 25

4 / 21 / 28

Plugs

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TPS Setup

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Before Adjustment (after warmup)

TBS_Before-1.jpg


After Adjustment

TBS_after-1.jpg


Reason I didn't rider after I was done

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Today I installed a gen 1 exhaust manifold on my gen 2.

Cats removed, of course.

That and the trooper mod on a pair of gen 1 mufflers makes a nice rumble.

I'm using Wally's smoothness map (pc3)up to 3k rpm, from there up its dynojets for holeshot headers w stock mufflers.

Test drive was good, smooth and strong everywhere I tried it.

 
I looked at it an swore ..

Like i've done since i've owned it. 120 miles so far this year..***, I bet some here have pushed theirs that far.

Serous thought's of putting it up for sale.. :(

 
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