What did you do to your FJR today?
- Thread starter CheesyRider
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Barabus
Well-known member
There have been a couple years for me that I did not ride- 2009 and 2010. Thought about selling but the bike isn't worth anything. Glad I keep it and am having fun riding this year. Bet you might have a similar experience.I looked at it an swore ..
Like i've done since i've owned it. 120 miles so far this year..Fuk, I bet some here have pushed theirs that far.
Serous thought's of putting it up for sale..
Barabus aka Barry
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
And buy a freaking dress while your at it!I looked at it an swore ..
Like i've done since i've owned it. 120 miles so far this year..Fuk, I bet some here have pushed theirs that far.
Serous thought's of putting it up for sale..
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Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Pretty sure this one is "special" Barry.. 7 years of ownership and but 2 years of riding the pig. Not once has she failed me, more like I've failed her.There have been a couple years for me that I did not ride- 2009 and 2010. Thought about selling but the bike isn't worth anything. Glad I keep it and am having fun riding this year. Bet you might have a similar experience.I looked at it an swore ..
Like i've done since i've owned it. 120 miles so far this year..Fuk, I bet some here have pushed theirs that far.
Serous thought's of putting it up for sale..
Barabus aka Barry
My previous bikes V STAR 1100 an Zuke can of tuna rolled plenty of miles with me piloting.. I suspect this platform hates me for some reason.
Day after I bought her my back went south..And since that day my shit keeps breaking.. Maybe I need an exorcist?
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Maybe you need to stop being such an old grouchy pussy. Have you pondered that?? If your head wasn't stuck so far up your ass, your back prolly wouldn't hurt so much.Pretty sure this one is "special" Barry.. 7 years of ownership and but 2 years of riding the pig. Not once has she failed me, more like I've failed her.There have been a couple years for me that I did not ride- 2009 and 2010. Thought about selling but the bike isn't worth anything. Glad I keep it and am having fun riding this year. Bet you might have a similar experience.I looked at it an swore ..
Like i've done since i've owned it. 120 miles so far this year..Fuk, I bet some here have pushed theirs that far.
Serous thought's of putting it up for sale..
Barabus aka Barry
My previous bikes V STAR 1100 an Zuke can of tuna rolled plenty of miles with me piloting.. I suspect this platform hates me for some reason.
Day after I bought her my back went south..And since that day my shit keeps breaking.. Maybe I need an exorcist?
OR...Maybe you should just go see a doctor. A real doctor. Being in that kind of pain ain't normal. It's entirely possible your back is FUBAR beyond bed rest and pain killers and you need surgery. Getting cut should never be taken lightly, but if it offers relief... Juss sayin'
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LAF
Well-known member
Well all I can say is I will never again touch the top relay pivot point again! It was a PITA job and unless it breaks on me I will never go there again, once is enough.
I used new locking nuts where I could and they are 17mm and easy to get a wrench on. I turned the proper bolts to facilitate removing the center stand. I also had to cut the offending bolts by hand with a hack saw in one of those little plastic handles as I could not fit anything in to cut them with power. Glad I did it but unless I hear crunching it wont be done again.
As clean as I will ever see it.
I used new locking nuts where I could and they are 17mm and easy to get a wrench on. I turned the proper bolts to facilitate removing the center stand. I also had to cut the offending bolts by hand with a hack saw in one of those little plastic handles as I could not fit anything in to cut them with power. Glad I did it but unless I hear crunching it wont be done again.
As clean as I will ever see it.
Yes, that. One of the bolts on the right side of the centerstand can't be removed without springing the right side exhaust pipe out of the way.
But also, folks will reverse the arm bolt that goes through the bottom casting. In the normal position it can not be extracted fully with the exhaust header still on the engine, and you can't spring the pipe enough to get it out either. You either have to cut it or remove the header. Bringing the bolt in from the left side is supposed to give you more room.
Using LAF's own picture (nice shot) the bolt to reverse is the one indicated below
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beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
Isn't that the Wisconsin State Motto? If not, it should be! jes' sayin' and nuff' said!
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Damn that's clean under there! Don't think mine has looked anything like that since about 115,000 miles ago.
beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
Jesu Cristo 'Zilla and Skooty, why do you two handle Bust with kid gloves like you do? Why don't you two girls just man up and tell that JACKASS what you really think!
https://www.prolotherapy.com/prolodefine.htm OK Barry C., I will get serious for a moment. AJ may be right that you will require surgery for your back pain, but I would definitely keep that as the very last option. Has your Doctor ever discussed Prolotherapy with you as a treatment? If torn tendons, cartilage or ligaments are the source of your back pain I can guarantee you that Prolotherapy will ease your pain. I came down with a case of Sciatica a decade ago that was so painful I was walking with a cane.
Chiropractors were not giving me any relief and the Doctors wanted to immediately operate. Finally a nurse friend suggested Prolotherapy, I tried it and after three injections and three months I was pain free. The Sciatica has never returned. https://www.prolotherapy.com/articles/wandycz.htm
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Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Not going to clutter this up any further :****: email sent
LAF
Well-known member
I found it did not matter on that bolt. Still a PITA either way you try to put it in. I slid the collar or spacer on the bolt, slid the bolt in, fused to get the spacer in place in the bracket and pushed the bolt home. This was a slightly shorter bolt and still not easy. The brackets that attach the center stand to the frame the ones most forward, were the ones I had to cut, both sides, no way those bolts were coming out with the exhaust on, period! Also why they are put in with the bolt heads on the inside and the locking bolts next to the exhaust. The two top bracket bolts do not matter but reversing them also makes sense.Yes, that. One of the bolts on the right side of the centerstand can't be removed without springing the right side exhaust pipe out of the way.
But also, folks will reverse the arm bolt that goes through the bottom casting. In the normal position it can not be extracted fully with the exhaust header still on the engine, and you can't spring the pipe enough to get it out either. You either have to cut it or remove the header. Bringing the bolt in from the left side is supposed to give you more room.
Using LAF's own picture (nice shot) the bolt to reverse is the one indicated below
SkooterG you don't ever have to stress about me working on your bike as much as I like to cut bolts
This is a job I would do for NO ONE, not even myself again.
I did not reverse that bolt (the one I pointed to) because I never got the damn thing out. The "collar" on the head end of the bolt is stuck inside the casting. I tried knocking it out with an appropriately sized 1/4" drive socket, but didn't want to rap too hard, sideways on that casting and risk breaking it off. By pushing the bolt as far as it will go to the right, when the head of the bolt hits the exhaust pipe, it is out just far enough to remove the relay arm with the bolt still captive in the frozen collar.
So, after removal without cutting, you couldn't get that bolt back in any easier from the left side? I thought the only interference on that side was from the center stand.
I really need to do this maintenance again but, like you, don't particularly enjoy the job.
So, after removal without cutting, you couldn't get that bolt back in any easier from the left side? I thought the only interference on that side was from the center stand.
I really need to do this maintenance again but, like you, don't particularly enjoy the job.
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LAF
Well-known member
Today I did these things:
Took the rear brake down and apart. Removed pads and retainer clips. Cleaned everything, pumped the pedal out into a wood block and cleaned with 400 grit paper, sprayed it all down with brake cleaner. Used a dab of high temp copper anti seize on the clips and the corresponding slot in the brake pads.
Pulled the rear wheel and greased everything, used Moly 60 on the rear drive splines, put it all back together and torqued it down.
Pulled the side stand and lubed it proper and bushing got the 400 grit. It was bone dry and the bolt was white with corrosion. Cleaned the switch and then ACF-50 pushing the plunger a few times. Then a very light coat of grease to help keep things at bay on that plunger.
Cleaned and lubed the shift linkage. All exposed behind the foot rest plate is filthy. Stands to reason the way the metal is cut around the U joint it will sling anything into the back side of foot rest plate. I packed grease into the shifter links and pulled and lubed the rear shifter pivot. It was pretty dirty.
Not too bad of a job and while I did not get a chance to ride it sitting and shifting it was pretty smooth.
Fred W:
On that bolt I hear you on that little spacer. Mine was tight also but I pre sprayed it with liquid wrench along with those 4 center stand bolts and let it sit. It was pretty corroded and needed some sanding. I did make a conscious effort to reverse it but doubt it will matter. Also on reversing that bolt I think I was looking at an exploded view and tried to put the bolt in the way it was called out on that.
I can only say if and when you guys do this clean and sand everything! I went as far as washers on a piece of sandpaper on a board to sand then clean. The dog bone bolts and all bushings are going to need sanding to take the light marks out of them. I ran sand paper into every bushing with different sized drill bits wrapped with sand paper. And all I can say is PACK everything solid with grease! Even as I slid everything in place I tried to cover as much as the hole as I could to allow air to escape before excess grease did. That is what all of it needs IMHO is to have as much grease between the bushing and the roller bearings, and as much as you can surrounding the bolts that go through the bushing center.
I am pretty done, I think? Maybe check the steering head but not sure I want to go there as I have no issues, no decel wobble and nothing boinking when I hit bumps.
Took the rear brake down and apart. Removed pads and retainer clips. Cleaned everything, pumped the pedal out into a wood block and cleaned with 400 grit paper, sprayed it all down with brake cleaner. Used a dab of high temp copper anti seize on the clips and the corresponding slot in the brake pads.
Pulled the rear wheel and greased everything, used Moly 60 on the rear drive splines, put it all back together and torqued it down.
Pulled the side stand and lubed it proper and bushing got the 400 grit. It was bone dry and the bolt was white with corrosion. Cleaned the switch and then ACF-50 pushing the plunger a few times. Then a very light coat of grease to help keep things at bay on that plunger.
Cleaned and lubed the shift linkage. All exposed behind the foot rest plate is filthy. Stands to reason the way the metal is cut around the U joint it will sling anything into the back side of foot rest plate. I packed grease into the shifter links and pulled and lubed the rear shifter pivot. It was pretty dirty.
Not too bad of a job and while I did not get a chance to ride it sitting and shifting it was pretty smooth.
Fred W:
On that bolt I hear you on that little spacer. Mine was tight also but I pre sprayed it with liquid wrench along with those 4 center stand bolts and let it sit. It was pretty corroded and needed some sanding. I did make a conscious effort to reverse it but doubt it will matter. Also on reversing that bolt I think I was looking at an exploded view and tried to put the bolt in the way it was called out on that.
I can only say if and when you guys do this clean and sand everything! I went as far as washers on a piece of sandpaper on a board to sand then clean. The dog bone bolts and all bushings are going to need sanding to take the light marks out of them. I ran sand paper into every bushing with different sized drill bits wrapped with sand paper. And all I can say is PACK everything solid with grease! Even as I slid everything in place I tried to cover as much as the hole as I could to allow air to escape before excess grease did. That is what all of it needs IMHO is to have as much grease between the bushing and the roller bearings, and as much as you can surrounding the bolts that go through the bushing center.
I am pretty done, I think? Maybe check the steering head but not sure I want to go there as I have no issues, no decel wobble and nothing boinking when I hit bumps.
FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
I rode down to the Yamaha dealership in Waynesburg, PA on Friday and had my recall harness installed. Of course they ordered the larger cable that took most of 3 hours to install. I had no noticable damage to the S-4 spider, but they put that honkin' harness on anyway. More money for the dealer to install ya know. I also have Road Runner's fan and headlight grounding cables on so I'm grounded to the max. Changed the oil today so I'm ready for NERDS in August. Although I still might change out my front tire before heading out to Vermont. Without trying to cause an oil thread to erupt, I also added 16oz of Rislone ZDDP and 6oz of Seafoam to the crankcase. I felt like a chemist.
I just bought a Frogg Toggs Horny Toads rain suit also. I can't believe the difference in quality and material of this new rain suit compaired to my 8 year old (useless in heavy rain) Frogg Toggs suit. The difference is night and day. I will post a review after experiencing some heavy rain for long periods of time. I can tell you that just by inspection of the new gear, it will keep me much drier than the old paper thin Frogg Toggs. The suit is at least three times the weight if not more and rolls up nicely in the draw string bag that accompanies it. The suit allows you to tighten up the neck area with an elastic band to stop water from entering around the helmet area. Very nicely designed.
I just bought a Frogg Toggs Horny Toads rain suit also. I can't believe the difference in quality and material of this new rain suit compaired to my 8 year old (useless in heavy rain) Frogg Toggs suit. The difference is night and day. I will post a review after experiencing some heavy rain for long periods of time. I can tell you that just by inspection of the new gear, it will keep me much drier than the old paper thin Frogg Toggs. The suit is at least three times the weight if not more and rolls up nicely in the draw string bag that accompanies it. The suit allows you to tighten up the neck area with an elastic band to stop water from entering around the helmet area. Very nicely designed.
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FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
LAF
Well-known member
Thank you for the compliment. While I don't mind wrenching and maintenance the relay arm wore me out.Great job LAF! That was quite a lot of work you've been doing to your bike. There has to be some type of catastrophic mechanical failure coming up for your FJR soon. Murphy's Law.
You are right on the big bang, we have a saying in our family, "my last name is Farling and that means I am going to get fucked".
I am getting ready for a 6000 mile +, 1 month run, so anything can happen.
But hell, I know my relay arm is right.
Hey my Dad lives in Mars PA, or Cranberry Township. I will be out that way in the next two weeks will try to let you know and maybe we can take a ride?
That is so clean, I'm speechless. I feel like a bad FJR owner.
I was going to grease the bones I could get to it without removing the exhaust. What is the purpose of sanding off all the gunk? Won't it grease fine semi-dirty, or is that naive?
I was going to grease the bones I could get to it without removing the exhaust. What is the purpose of sanding off all the gunk? Won't it grease fine semi-dirty, or is that naive?
LAF
Well-known member
Any dirt or crud and pitting from water is going to have a grit that is going to wear where it hits. Also the seal on those bushings and dog bones are the only seal on those bushings. If they are not smooth and clean including the dog bone ends you take the chance of not sealing them and the washers also form that seal as well.
Ohh and I am anal so to me shiny and smooth is the way they were put on, however with no grease to speak of, that I wanted it pristine as it came from the factory.
Remember many never touch this stuff and have no problems.
Me since I am retired I do it for fun, experience, and so that if anything goes south I have pictures to prove this stuff has been done so YES and the Dealer have no leg to stand on if there is an issue.
Yes, that. One of the bolts on the right side of the centerstand can't be removed without springing the right side exhaust pipe out of the way.
But also, folks will reverse the arm bolt that goes through the bottom casting. In the normal position it can not be extracted fully with the exhaust header still on the engine, and you can't spring the pipe enough to get it out either. You either have to cut it or remove the header. Bringing the bolt in from the left side is supposed to give you more room.
Using LAF's own picture (nice shot) the bolt to reverse is the one indicated below
No need to cut anything, the bolt CAN be removed with the exhaust in place, I've done it on all 3 of my FJRs you have just got to be brave when it comes to "springing" the exhaust out of the way (works on gen 1 and 2 bikes)
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