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Turned out pretty nice.... but now theres a problem...
Right after I buttoned it up now the dimmer switch doesn't click on and off... just spins...

Justin - any ideas on this ?!?! took it straight from the bag, mounted it up and no more clicky.... Didn't even wire it up yet...
Did you try it without the plastic nob portion on to see what's happening? Make sure the nut holding the rheostat is tight. If it's broken I'll get another sent out to you today.

 
Yeah - I pulled the knob off and same thing from the spline.... just spins...

Nut is tight on the rheostat... I'm sorry bro... :(

 
Yeah - I pulled the knob off and same thing from the spline.... just spins...
Nut is tight on the rheostat... I'm sorry bro...
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Nothing to be sorry about on your part. Sorry you got a dud unit. I'll have one in the mail for you today.

 
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Justin, are the new dimmers more robust than the first generation of dimmers?

My dimmer for my super mini led fork lights (LR10) stopped working- all fuses going in and out were still good. (2.5 amp for headlight input bypass, 7 amp for power input) my LR4's were still working fine- so I wired the mini's through the LR4 dimmer- they all work just fine- so I think the dimmer is kaput. Tested all the connections- all were/are soldered and shrink wrapped, no shorts found with the multi-meter.

Thoughts?

 
Justin, are the new dimmers more robust than the first generation of dimmers?
My dimmer for my super mini led fork lights (LR10) stopped working- all fuses going in and out were still good. (2.5 amp for headlight input bypass, 7 amp for power input) my LR4's were still working fine- so I wired the mini's through the LR4 dimmer- they all work just fine- so I think the dimmer is kaput. Tested all the connections- all were/are soldered and shrink wrapped, no shorts found with the multi-meter.

Thoughts?
The new dimmers are a bit more robust. The pot is attached right to the board, instead of with a plugged wire, and the wires exiting the box are secured better. I'd say pop it open and see if any obvious connections came apart (like the plug from the pot to the board). Just unscrew the knob and pry the bottom of the case. Either way, no worries, I'll send you out a new one. Just PM me your info.

 
riding along yesterday in the daytime with the L4s on at the lowest possible setting to keep them lit (mirror mount) . Some ******* flashes his brights at me (in the daytime!) He then got to experience the LR4s and my highbeams. I am certain he enjoyed the light show.
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I have to say... I LOVE these lights.... these photos were taken during the day- with dimmers about 30% and the camera adjusted the F settings enough that the background the time of day looks to be getting dark, not 4 in the afternoon!

Thanks Justin for sending out another dimmer so quick, never did find any shorts or anything- replaced all the fuses- with the correct rating (note to self- look for the decimal in between the 2 and 5
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), checked everything twice, and they seem to be working great- took them for a short 100 mile test ride today and no problems!! Thanks again for making these available for a good price.

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I have to say... I LOVE these lights.... these photos were taken during the day- with dimmers about 30% and the camera adjusted the F settings enough that the background the time of day looks to be getting dark, not 4 in the afternoon!Thanks Justin for sending out another dimmer so quick, never did find any shorts or anything- replaced all the fuses- with the correct rating (note to self- look for the decimal in between the 2 and 5
russian_roulette.gif
), checked everything twice, and they seem to be working great- took them for a short 100 mile test ride today and no problems!! Thanks again for making these available for a good price.
You're welcome, and thanks for sharing the pics. Sadly, there is still someone out there that "just won't see you" ..
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I might have to steal those pictures for re-use
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Holy Shmoley, Steve!!

Better be careful or you'll put someone's eye out with those things!
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And it looks like the snow is almost gone up 'dere, eh?

 
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And it looks like the snow is almost gone up 'dere, eh?
If you look in the background of the bottom pic you can see there is still piles of dirty snow banks. We had a crap load of snow this winter.

As for the lights, I'm going to have to strengthen the brackets. The combo is just a little to heavy and will eventually cause the brackets to stress crack. What is odd, is that the brackets that came off my Gen 1 were slightly stronger and don't flex as much.

One thing is for certain though, when the high beam get thumbed, anything in front of me pretty much gets vapourized.

What really pissed me off though is during reassembly, something got disco'd and now I've got to pull the dash again.

Oh, btw, anybody with a gen 3 that wants to put HID's in but doesn't know where to put the ballasts... directly behind the front vents beside the headlight there is a fair bit of room. Only the battery side was a little tight (the Hella ballasts are *HUGE*).

 
I noticed a difference on my 740 mile run home yesterday. People tend to get the hell outa the way quicker when comming up behind them. The few that were more stubborn got a quck flash of full power and they instantly put on there right blinker. Dam these LR4's do work great.

Dave

 
Go for it, Joe. I really like mine!

Now here's a question for all of you LR4 owners and users, especially those mounted at or near headlight level: How are you aiming them?

The LR4's have a pretty wide, nearly circular beam pattern, which means that if they are aimed straight ahead they will be throwing light directly at oncoming traffic, and they will be overlapping to a large extent in the center. Are you aiming them a little bit downward? Or outward to get more coverage? Or just straight ahead and dimming them (a lot) except when on high beams?

I haven't done any real nighttime riding with the new LR4s yet, but I suspect that I'll need to dim them way down at night as compared to daytime running light mode. Prior to installing the LR4's I'd been in the habit of riding with high beams on during daylight hours, but considering how bright and dazzling these lights are at 100% I'm wondering if that would be counter productive to conspicuousness goals? So bright they can't see the bike behind the lights, so to speak.

Be curious what other folks are doing with them, but like I said... I like 'em a lot.

 
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Fred,

You definately do not want to be running in High beam mode with the LR4's. That's only asking for trouble IMO. I run mine as low as possible during the daytime and they still make the original headlights look dim. As far as aiming them they are pretty much slightly down but not much and straight ahead. I did notice that Wayne had the right one on his bike slightly positioned to the right. My guess is he wanted to see any bambi's on the side of the road.

Dave

 
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Go for it, Joe. I really like mine!


Now here's a question for all of you LR4 owners and users, especially those mounted at or near headlight level: How are you aiming them?

The LR4's have a pretty wide, nearly circular beam pattern, which means that if they are aimed straight ahead they will be throwing light directly at oncoming traffic, and they will be overlapping to a large extent in the center. Are you aiming them a little bit downward? Or outward to get more coverage? Or just straight ahead and dimming them (a lot) except when on high beams?

I haven't done any real nighttime riding with the new LR4s yet, but I suspect that I'll need to dim them way down at night as compared to daytime running light mode. Prior to installing the LR4's I'd been in the habit of riding with high beams on during daylight hours, but considering how bright and dazzling these lights are at 100% I'm wondering if that would be counter productive to conspicuousness goals? So bright they can't see the bike behind the lights, so to speak.

Be curious what other folks are doing with them, but like I said... I like 'em a lot.
I wouldn't run them at full power during the day. I run mine at like 10-15% with the lows at all times and full power with the highs. As for aiming, straight ahead and level. I rarely get flashed at night with them dimmed.

 
FYI folks, we'll be out of town starting tomorrow, through Monday, attending the Silver State Round-up rally in Nevada. Orders over the next few days will ship on Tuesday.

 
Finally got around to hooking these bad boys up.... OMG....

With the dimmer at lowest power and then brights on full blast....

Ya can't even look at them.... this was indoors in our service area, very well lit up area, the camera is adjusting big time because they are so bright.

Can't wait to try them out in the rural areas at night..... !!!!

Hooked them up with a Fuzeblock at the very back of the bike behind the pillon seat.

Tapped into the brake light wire for switched power for the fuzeblock and tapped into the LF yellow highbeam wire for the dimmer.

Pain in the ass to get it all done but was worth the effort.

Thanks so much Justin.... really appreciate them now more then ever, now that I got the time to get them working.

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Finally got around to hooking these bad boys up.... OMG....
**SNIP**

Thanks so much Justin.... really appreciate them now more then ever, now that I got the time to get them working.
You're welcome, glad you like them!

And, on another note! We've finally released our new Modular light series. These lights join our monster LR5 series lights in the Pro series line up. Like the LR5, they are built to take a beating and stand up to whatever you can throw at them. The completely modular design allows you to connect multiple lights to meet your needs (spot/flood) and tailer the fit for your vehicle. For example, a common approach is a 4 or 5 light bar, with spots in the middle and floods at the end. Of course, they also make great lights without being coupled together as well.

Quick Feature List:

- Completely modular design. Connect multiple lights together as a light bar, square etc, or use alone.

- 10 Watt Cree XM-L U2 chips

- High quality computer modeled optics, available in 10 degree spot (smooth reflector) or 30 degree flood (patterned reflector)

- Durable UV resistant finish

- IP68 dust/waterproof with sealed Deutsch connectors

- Protected against EMC/RFI interference

- 2.5 inch Length/Width, 2.64 Inch Depth,

- 2 Year Warranty

Pricing is $60 per unit (about $50 with FJR15 discount :) ).

Spot: https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LRM10-S

Flood: https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LRM10-F

Spot on left, Flood right:

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Coupled together into a 5 light lightbar - 3 spots in the middle and floods on the outside.

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