LEDRider LED Floods and Spots - FJR Forum discount

[08FJR4ME]

Consider them sold then. Great deal. They are going in my F350. There are a couple of folks that run Phids or whatever the hell they are when I go to work in the AM. One is a jacked up truck with at least a 6" lift kit. As a matter of fact they are both trucks with High intensity lighting of some sort.

Payback is a *****,

Dave

 

[Justin]

Consider them sold then. Great deal. They are going in my F350. There are a couple of folks that run Phids or whatever the hell they are when I go to work in the AM. One is a jacked up truck with at least a 6" lift kit. As a matter of fact they are both trucks with High intensity lighting of some sort.
Payback is a *****,

Dave

Hmm.. might want to get a set of the LR64's as well then - I'll send you PM about the lights.

 

[Chuck35]

Justin do you have any plans to offer something like your mini in a long range spot?

I'd like to get something about this size with a clear lens and a 15 degree beam.

 

[Justin]

Justin do you have any plans to offer something like your mini in a long range spot?I'd like to get something about this size with a clear lens and a 15 degree beam.

You mean like this?

https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=LR61

Not quite as pretty as the Mini, but has 15 degree pattern.

 

[Chuck35]

Like that on the inside, but round on the outside

 

[Justin]

Like that on the inside, but round on the outside

I'm working on a product that may fit your needs currently. Will post info when I have more details

P.S. It will be a 10 degree pencil beam.

 

[Chuck35]

I'll be looking forward to it!

I'm not sure about mounting options yet, a square light isn't going to work for me.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Payment sent for the LR62's.

thanks,

 

[Dutch]

Happy new year, and I hope 2014 is a year of happiness and prosperity for you all

.
I just wanted to share some LEDrider news:

Dimmers will be in very soon. Price point will put them at about $30 each with the permanent FJR Forum discount

. If you need a simple, robust dimmer, that eliminates the need for a secondary switch - this will have you covered!

Within the next few weeks we'll be introducing our new 4.5 inch, single LED, 25 watt spot light. We'll be doing a one time group buy deal on these, so make sure to check back if you're interested. After that, our normal pricing will be in effect. These will be the best lumen per dollar value on the market!

For now, here's some teaser pics

Massive light throw needs big reflectors - these lights are comparable in size to a 4-4.5 Inch HID:

When we say "spot", we're not kidding

. These lights throw far and TIGHT.

Optional clear and yellow snap-on covers allow you to tailor the beam to your needs in as much time as it takes to pop the lens covers on!

More details coming soon. Any questions? Post them here!

Any closer?

 

[Justin]

Any closer?

Low cost 4.5 inch lights aren't going to happen. I wasn't able to find the patent info until after I opened my mouth :/. I am, however, working on becoming a Cyclops dealer, so we will have 4.5 inch LEDs eventually. Price will be a bit more, but will be worth it.

 

[Justin]

I was considering selling a project dimmer kit, with just the PCB, rheostat and wiring. This would be for folks that wanted to make there own box or add to a switch box etc. Just trying to judge interest in that. Thoughts? Anyone interested in such a thing?

 

[ionbeam]

I was considering selling a project dimmer kit, with just the PCB, rheostat and wiring. This would be for folks that wanted to make there own box or add to a switch box etc. Just trying to judge interest in that. Thoughts? Anyone interested in such a thing?

Does the PCB have any conformal coating? FWIW and IMO, if the PCB is going to be installed in uncontrolled and unknown ways an environmental encapsulation will go a long way to keeping the boards functional. If your controller box was filled with a potting compound it would would make your unit more reliable by wicking heat away, make it very environment proof, solve the issue with sealing the wires leaving the case and strain relieve the wires too. On the other hand, good silicone potting compound is not inexpensive. The HeatTrollers I have repaired in the past have simply used hot melt glue as a potting compound.

 

[Justin]

Does the PCB have any conformal coating? FWIW and IMO, if the PCB is going to be installed in uncontrolled and unknown ways an environmental encapsulation will go a long way to keeping the boards functional. If your controller box was filled with a potting compound it would would make your unit more reliable by wicking heat away, make it very environment proof, solve the issue with sealing the wires leaving the case and strain relieve the wires too. On the other hand, good silicone potting compound is not inexpensive. The HeatTrollers I have repaired in the past have simply used hot melt glue as a potting compound.

Yes, and good thoughts. I really like the idea of potting the whole thing. The only problem I foresee with that is the rheostat inside the case. The moving pieces would get gummed up if they were potted. Will have to see if the rheostat can be replaced with a sealed one. I will have to look into the costs of both. Hopefully it won't be ridiculously expensive to make those changes.

 

[Eric L]

btw, thanks for the tip on the liquid tape. That stuff is the bomb.

 

[Fred W]

I dunno, Justin. I'm kinda fond of the package you sold me. It's a nice size (relatively small) and can easily be mounted with very little trouble. The main problem on most of our bikes is that we've already used up all the obvious locations. And if some small number of folks wanted to remove it from your box and put it into some other container there's really nothing stopping them as is.

The liquid tape seal also cracked on mine when installing it, so I just peeled the rest of it away and left it that way since it was going inside the glove box. There is a rubber grommet under the liquid tape, so it's not like there is a gaping hole there. I would probably opt for some sort of RTV silicone sealant to seal the wire entry rather than the inflexible (especially in the cold) liquid tape.

As for weatherproofing, get a can of conformal coating and shoot the circuit boards with a couple of coats and that should help. That was what I did with my HID headlight delay circuit a couple of years ago, then just stuffed it in a plastic Radio Shack project box with no weather seal, and it has lived happily under the seat with no ill effects since then. If folks want to pot those dimmer modules it would be a relatively simple thing to crack the case open and hit it with some hot glue. But doing that in advance would negate the possibility of relocating the board to a different enclosure.

 

[BigOgre]

The liquid tape seal also cracked on mine when installing it, so I just peeled the rest of it away and left it that way since it was going inside the glove box. There is a rubber grommet under the liquid tape, so it's not like there is a gaping hole there. I would probably opt for some sort of RTV silicone sealant to seal the wire entry rather than the inflexible (especially in the cold) liquid tape.

Providing you took care around the knob, what if you PlastiDipped the whole thing as is, including an inch or so of the wire?

 

[Justin]

I dunno, Justin. I'm kinda fond of the package you sold me. It's a nice size (relatively small) and can easily be mounted with very little trouble. The main problem on most of our bikes is that we've already used up all the obvious locations. And if some small number of folks wanted to remove it from your box and put it into some other container there's really nothing stopping them as is.
The liquid tape seal also cracked on mine when installing it, so I just peeled the rest of it away and left it that way since it was going inside the glove box. There is a rubber grommet under the liquid tape, so it's not like there is a gaping hole there. I would probably opt for some sort of RTV silicone sealant to seal the wire entry rather than the inflexible (especially in the cold) liquid tape.

As for weatherproofing, get a can of conformal coating and shoot the circuit boards with a couple of coats and that should help. That was what I did with my HID headlight delay circuit a couple of years ago, then just stuffed it in a plastic Radio Shack project box with no weather seal, and it has lived happily under the seat with no ill effects since then. If folks want to pot those dimmer modules it would be a relatively simple thing to crack the case open and hit it with some hot glue. But doing that in advance would negate the possibility of relocating the board to a different enclosure.

Good thoughts as well. Yeah, the liquid tape didn't work out as well as I hoped. I am going to test a few with Silicone RTV and see how they turn out. Works well for sealing the cases, so I'm thinking it will be good on the wires as well. Plus it will get into the hole around the wires as well.

 

[Justin]

Yup, the RTV worked 10x better. Way more flexible, plus it gets nice and deep around the wires in the grommet. I also found that I can goop up the wire bundle, and shrink tube right over it. Thus sealing up another point of entry.

 

[Eric L]

well then, cant wait for the final FINAL format.

 

[ionbeam]

Providing you took care around the knob, what if you PlastiDipped the whole thing as is, including an inch or so of the wire?

A couple of things.

Plasti Dip also makes Liquid Electrical Tape. Liquid Tape is formulated for electrical use, it won't harm metals used for wires, PCBs or components through chemical action and won't have strong enough surface tension to pull things apart. Liquid Tape is made to go on electrical items so it has very high electrical resistance to prevent current leaking through the goo and resist higher voltages like 110 VAC from punching through the insulation. A little known fact is that electrical tapes come with voltage ratings, they aren't all created equal and if you wrap a 480 volt wire with hardware store electrical tape and touch it you are going to get one heck of a shock. I'm not sure that Plasti Dip has good enough electrical resistance.

The other issue with Plasti Dip is subtle but significant. If there are any voids between the wires, or if the Plasti Dip gets hot, like over the power FET it can crack; both conditions will let moisture wick in but the worst part is that it will hold the moisture in and make it hard to vent it back out again. Perhaps this risk is minor but it isn't negligible.

HumiSeal, TechSpray, Dow Corning, Miller Stephens and a bunch of others make conformal coatings that are quick to spray on and are made for this kind of use but damn, they are expensive for a small, one time use.